Tuning question/problem

M

MikeLonsford

Guest
Well I wasn't happy enough with my existing set up and decided to paper tune last night. I am right handed and shoot a mathews switchback with a mechanical release, a D loop and a trophy taker fall away rest.

The tip was low right vs the fletch. I adjusted my nocking point lower and that got me to where the tip is now right of the fletch. Then I tried adjusting the rest to the right, but no matter how far I went it didn't help it. Then I tried to go left, same thing, everywhere I move the rest, the point still hits right. Some places more than others. I get these results when I am very near the paper (5 yds) If I am further back (10 yds) it seems like the fletches have straightened out the flight.

So I got to looking at the rest set up and am now thinking maybe I need to pull the whole set up closer to the string, away from the riser, to give me even more room to move to the right. Losening the screw that ties it to the riser and pulling it to me. This would allow the rest arm to clear the riser and I could move further to the right. Is this something anyone else has had to do with this bow and release? My concern is that if I do this then I'll have to reserve the cable inot the main string to get the rest timed correctly. Maybe I can just adjust the opposite end of the cable where it ties to the rest arm?

Another thing I was thinking was maybe the cable is coming up and contacting the fletches. I have tried shooting the colored fletch both up and down. Everyone here told me to shoot it up last year. The shop I bought it at last year and tuned it in said to shoot it down and don't listen to anybody else. I ultimately had it up and liked my final tune I did last year. I think I'm going to get some spray on deodorant and see about if the fletches are hitting anywhere as I adjust to different locations. Any help or ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance,

Mike
 
Definitely get some desenex and spray the cables where the fletches go by, the rest and riser. The Switchback has been pretty easy to tune from what I hear and basically is difficult to make shoot anything but a bullet hole.

What's the string, sight, arrow picture look like from behind the bow? By this I mean to center the string down the center of the grip visually and see where your sight is vs the string and where the tip of the arrow is vs. the string.

In a perfect world with perfect nock travel you'd see the sight about 1/4" outside the string line and the arrow dead down the string line.

There is a possibility that you have a goofy limb or cam lean that is throwing it way off, but that is rare.

The other thing that is likely is that you are torquing the bow at the grip. This is pretty common when going form other makes of bow to a Mathews. Their grips are very different and can cause "issues".

Let us know how it goes.

cheers,
Pete
 
LAST EDITED ON Aug-22-06 AT 02:45PM (MST)[p]The site picture is/was my sights would appear roughly 1/4" to the left of my string, with the arrow tip pointing straight away along the string and rest.

I wouldn't doubt that I am torqueing the bow, but do my best not to. I shoot with bow hand having open fingers to help avoid that. I'll report back after spraying on the Desenex.

Thanks
Mike
 
Mike did you start with the arrow set out from the riser as the manual states. I think it's about 13/16 but not sure with your model so check in manual. The Mathews bow can't be lasered and it is unique in that fashion and it looks like it's off. Some of the new models though you split the grip and there is a line in the lamination to help you. Pete's right they shoot like a house of fire and once you get that measurement check your nock height and it may shoot a little better slightly nock high rather than level. Some do some don't. I don't shoot Mathews any more but I used too and they will shoot great! Then shoot it and adjust slightly. Move paper down range and shoot further away and tune it to shoot at 10- 15 yards if necessary to take arrow parallex out of picture and somethimes that will do the trick. Good luck!
 
So I tried the spray on powder and didn't see any rub marks at least in the middle area of where I can move the rest. I can only move it about3/16 either way before I would have an interference though. Anyhow the tip still was shooting about 1/2" right of the center of fletch at the 3 to 4 yards. When I back up to 10 or further there is no indication of the wobble. It looks like the bullet hole. Anyway I decided to go with that, rough shot a couple field tips and zeroed a broadhead for 20 and 40 yards. We'll see if it helps the overall grouping of my broadheads in the next few days. Thanks for any more feedback if anyone has some. Good Luck to all, the season is almost here!

Mike
 

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