steel vs. wood

mntman · Dec 23, 2011

I am in the process of researching/designing a trophy room/building. I am thinking of building a 28'x36' building with no rooms.
I will be needing a ridge beam for the full length, rafters and I also will be putting in at least one maybe two cross supports to keep the walls in place and to help support the ridge beam.

My question is for those of you who have done something similar did you use wood or steel beams and what do you like/dislike about them?

If I use steel I will be covering them up with a decorative boards, probably old barn boards. (that is what I want to use on the bottom 3' of all my walls also)

Thanks,
Mntman

"Hunting is where you prove yourself"

BuckSnort · Dec 23, 2011

Lot's of options with wood..You can even do "cut and stack" trusses and make them look rustic then in between the rafters you can install T&G knotted pine or something similar and it would look great...Indirect lighting along the whole wall all the way around would really make the ceiling look kick ass....

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2lumpy · Dec 23, 2011

A 36' gluelam beam will need to be some where over 6' deep and 12" wide, as I recall. Spanning a 18' at my cabin require 24' by 7.5" with a 7/10 pitch roof.

I'm guessing you might end up with a metal I beam if your going to span that far.

DC

overton · Dec 23, 2011

You need an engineer.

REDDOG · Dec 23, 2011

Use a steel girder and side it with T&G.

mntman · Dec 23, 2011

I would be supporting it with some verticals off the the ones that go across between the side walls. I know it would have to be big but it will only go 18' or 12' without being supported. Depending on if I use one or two supports.

Mntman

"Hunting is where you prove yourself"

woodruffhunter · Dec 23, 2011

I would use logs for my support, and a top log
for beam. I would use rough cut rafters and tongue and groove for the ceiling...

257Tony · Dec 24, 2011

Depends on your snow load. If you are only spanning 18' in a normal snow load area, you won't need a huge beam. Glulam has the built in advantage of looking good with just a coat of stain.

OutdoorWriter · Dec 24, 2011

LAST EDITED ON Dec-24-11 AT 09:43AM (MST)[p]A Glu-Lam would work just fine for the roof beam, but you will need to have someone figure out the deflection/load capacity, especially if you're in an area that gets snow.

I live in the Phx metro area, so I didn't have to worry about a snow load. I used a 4.5"x14" to span 28' in my 28'x26' workshop, which has a shed-type roof, i.e. slopes in one direction only. The ends of the 2"x10"x14' rafters meet atop the beam that splits the 26' width in half.

This site will give give you a good idea of the size you might need. The charts will give you sizes for both dry and snow load applications.

http://www.aitc-glulam.org/capacity.asp

TONY MANDILE

How To Hunt Coues Deer

nickman · Dec 24, 2011

Whatever you think, the building inspector won't like, so you need to check with him first.....then make your decision.

We used a metal building and TOTALLY lined the inside with wood. A lot of work, but worth it overall.

"Fathom the hypocracy of a Government that requires every citizen to prove that they are insured.....but not everyone must prove that they are a citizen"

D13er · Dec 24, 2011

JB

Gator · Dec 24, 2011

Snow load
Use a steel beams and just wood wrap them in old barn wood.
Build the whole building out of steel and line it with insulation and then cover it with knotty pine and put wood flooring on top of your concrete floor it will look awesome.

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Gator · Dec 24, 2011

Build a bigger building too, Because that one will fill up fast. LOL

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Gator · Dec 25, 2011

Here a guy who cuts wood one out of trees.

Justman's Saw Mill" located 11 miles south of Montrose offers custom cutting of your logs or mine. Bring any lumber or logs you would like me to cut, beams, fireplace mantles, benches, stumps made into table bases, just anything! **** YOU BRING IT I WILL CUT IT! Call Gary Justman at 970-964-5221 OR Collin Justman at 970-964-5219 Thank you

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mntman · Dec 25, 2011

nickman, do you have any type of decorative beams or anything spanning through your steel building?
Could you post some pictures of what the inside looks like too?

thanks.

Mntman

"Hunting is where you prove yourself"

mtmuley · Dec 25, 2011

You will also have to take into consideration the size of the supports that span the 28 feet from your sidewalls in order to carry the load from the ridge that will be transfered to them. In any case, steel will be able to carry the loads with a smaller overall dimension in the size of the supporting member. I used steel to carry the floor load when I built my house to minimize the depth of the beam and maximize ceiling height in the basement. Steel beams are easily wrapped to look like a wood beam. mtmuley

CAelknuts · Dec 25, 2011

LAST EDITED ON Dec-25-11 AT 03:03PM (MST)[p]

This isn't all that difficult. My room is 28' by 40'. For the length, I have a clearspan from one end to the other, courtesy of a gluelam beam that runs the length of the room. I don't remember the exact depth of the beam, but it is only about 12" deep and 6" wide. It has held my roof up just fine for 24 years. I have a 9/12 concrete tile roof on top of that gluelam.

Get an engineer to do the calcs and your lumberyard will work with him to get the right beam for your needs. Having a clear span for the entire length of the room is nice, better than cluttering it with trusses for sure.

A couple other things to keep in mind. 1st, sheath your walls entirely in 3/4" plywood so that you can hang heads anywhere you want. 2nd, think about a big fireplace on one end. I have a huge fireplace on one end that is made entirely of native stone from Colorado (I brought an entire flatbed load and had it delivered to CA) and it has 3 big elk , 3 big bucks, and other assorted stuff on it. It is the point of the room that everyone seems to like the best. Finally, build your room bigger than you expect to need. You will fill it up.

mntman · Dec 26, 2011

Thanks.
Do you have to worry about snow CAelknuts?
I will get someone with the knowledge to determine what I exactly need but just trying to figure out what I want first before I go to them when I start this.

Been thinking of a fireplace, haven't decided for sure but probably not. That will start adding lots of money to the bill already. Might plan it for a future installation...

Mntman

"Hunting is where you prove yourself"

Gator · Dec 26, 2011

I build steel and wooden building. Where(state and Elev.) are you building, I can give you a rough idea what you will need.
Snow load, then wind load will be the one's you will need to look for.

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CAelknuts · Dec 27, 2011

Mntman, no I do not have to worry about snow load. Also, I took a look at the beam, and it is deeper than 12", but I doubt more than about 18-22" deep. It isn't all that big and architectural grade glulams look pretty nice when stained. I left mine natural and it looks fine. You can also easily sheath it in whatever wood you like for a different look.

One thing I really like that I didn't mention earlier is that I did my entire ceiling in clear cedar. It's been so long (24+ years) that I don't remember if it is T&G or lap, but it looks great. We did it entirely blind nailed, so it's a very clean look. Might be something for you to think about.

nickman · Dec 27, 2011

Sorry, it has been a busy weekend.

All I did was put up the steel Butler building and then went inside and screwed firring strips to all the beams, wall studs and girders. Insulated it entirely and drywalled the whole interior.

I used old barn wood and whatever I could find to give it the complete wood building look. It is fairly easy, but time consuming.

I don't have any pictures to post, but you can absolutely elimunate ALL exposed metal on the inside if you try.

I am sure my ex wife has since painted the whole thing powder blue, just to spite me.

"Fathom the hypocracy of a Government that requires every citizen to prove that they are insured.....but not everyone must prove that they are a citizen"