Split limbs or not

[mtmuley]

I am still researching my first bow. It has probably been asked before, but what about split limb bows? Good, or bad? A guy I know claims to be an expert, and he says they are bad news. While I'm at it, he says PSE bows are suspect because they never make the same bow 2 years in a row. This first bow will have to be kept in the 300 to 350 dollar range, and PSE has a big selection of low priced bows. What should I look at as far as brace height? I've read the longer the more forgiving. I have a lot more questions as I get further into my search for a bow. I guess this is enough for now. Thanks in advance guys. mtmuley

 

[BOHNTR]

Split limbs are actually stronger and lighter (according to tests) than most solid limb designs. However, solid limbs are also very solid. ALL the major manufacturers (including PSE) make quality bows. Hoyt, Mathews, BowTec, Reflex, PSE, Martin make affordable bows that will fill your needs. Best advice is to go to your nearest pro-shop and shoot them all. Pick the one that is in your price range, feels good in your hand, is forgiving, and most of all QUIET. Once you find one, take the plunge and practice until the season opens. Good luck and have fun.

BOHNTR )))---------->

 

[coonhound40]

LAST EDITED ON Jan-14-06 AT 07:34PM (MST)[p]I would always take brace hight over speed. Minimum I would buy would be 7" but 7 1/2" to 8" is even better. It's like shooting a pistol next to a rifle, same Philos.

 

[dl19]

Split limbs and solid does not matter at all....the level of quality is what is important...the only way anything is sold for less is because the cost to make it is less...that means the quality is less in some areas to a certain degree...almost every company makes a bow in your price range, but some will be better then others...if you are maxed out at 400 completely set up you are limiting yourself somewhat...try several of he package bows (parker, mid level pse, cabelas, etc.) and it will work decently...three years ago I switched from firearm to bow for deer...I went cheap my first year and it cost me a 190" buck because the bow was not good enough to shoot 50yds or more....I then stepped up to a good bow and set up like I knew I should have and have two P&Y MD.....I posted the 05 buck on the MD forum...cropped photo to eliminate back ground so it turned grainy...I should have never purchased the cheap bow a PSE Nova package....PSE makes good bows just get into their better stuff...any equipment or tool you get what yo pay for and that includes your outdoor equipment...so my vote is to save/borrow your money to get what you really want...I have financed my hunting equipment before when I did not/could not wait...and was never sorry for the extra spent....

 

[mtmuley]

dl19, I agree about getting what you pay for. I spent a ton of money on a rifle a couple years ago and the wife still isn't over it. Maybe I'll wait till I can spend the bucks. mtmuley

 

[dl19]

i just work a few extra days...or go do a little odd job fixing something for someone..you would be suprised at the little jobs pay scale for hours involved...and the new bow is yours...dont shut yourself out thinking you have to go 1500 to get set up with arrows, release, etc...but you will be pushing 700 for a decent package ready to hunt and practice...go find a good shed pair sell them on ebay and make a couple hundred easy...just a shed not like you killed it or anything...buy a good used bow because they loose value worse then a car...i know you can get a 2-3 year old top of the line set up with good stuff for under 500...some guys just have to have the newest because they do...the mathews, hoyt, or even pse top of the line bows are minimally different from now....check the specs....