Slick Tricks DID NOT do the trick for me!!

[erik1972]

Saturday I had an 8 pointer at what I thought was 30 yards. My 100gr Slick Tricks blew right through him but hit awfully high. I was starting to second guess my yardage. So I went down to where he was standing and I guessed him at 30 yards, I ranged back up to my tree and he was 36 yards. I looked for three hours and only had blood for maybe fifty yards. I know it was a high shot and the blood I did see had no signs of lung blood, just regular red blood. The blood trail was very faint and only lasted 50-75 yards then stopped.

I have only lost 2 deer out of 45 harvested. Man this really sucks. I went back this morning and looked some more but never found him.

So I shot this afternoon with my field tips and the Slick Tricks. My field tips are dead accurate out to 40 yards. The Slick Tricks are easily 6" high. What the hell would that be from?

I am a good shot and just cannot figure this one out. I posted previously that my 100 and 125 grain field tips impact in the same spot. Why would my Slick Tricks fly so high??

It makes me sick to loose a good deer.

Maybe I should switch to Rages!

Help me,

Erik

 

[3blade]

LAST EDITED ON Oct-14-07 AT 05:25PM (MST)[p]Did you tune your bow for this broadhead in the beginning? Here

http://www.eastonarchery.com/downloads.asp

click on the tuning guide and scroll down aways and you'll see how to tune for broadheads....any broadhead. You just can't take it for granted that they will fly to your field points. And if you change broadheads, vanes, arrows, etc, your going to have to do it all over again.

 

[canhunter]

Was it sighted in with the broadhead and were all shot for accuracy before the hunt? If not then always sight in with what your going to hunt with. If yes then something must have moved on your bow. Fall away rest not dropping correctly, shift on the rest. Tough one for sure

 

[a3dhunter]

Obviously something is out of tune. Either your rest moved, your string stretched, or your bow was never in tune to begin with. Check the basics first. I have shot tricks all year and they still hit with field points, and I have taken some bad falls with bow in hand on some steep mountains. Have hunted two 12 day hunts with it and it has been through a lot, but I shoot when in camp to make sure nothing changes. I also mark everything so I can look at my bow and see if something changed. While there are some things I don't like about tricks, they are consistent.

 

[erik1972]

I use Slick Tricks to sight it in, but then they need taken apart and new blades put in before the hunt. Can something have gone wrong after I put the new blades in.

Like I said, the field tips still fly true out to 40 yards. i cant imagine shooting all my Slick Tricks at the target and dulling the blades. I did shoot one in three dufferent arrows and they all went high.

If you tune your bow to broadheads then change the heads for hunting season, what actually to your tun them? What is the proper way of changing blades and not messing up your tune.

I like to think I am a good archer but this one has me stumped, not to mention loosing a decent deer!!

Thanks for the replies.

Erik

 

[swbuckmaster]

Erik I don't even know where to start. 100 gr and 125 gr wont impact in the same spot first off. Don?t know if that is you problem. Second changing you blades won't mess with anything. If I am not mistaken slick tricks are mechanicals and should have no problem flying with your field tips. It sounds like you need to come over to my house and start over. Something is wrong with your bow, arrows, strings, tune up or all of the above. Sorry you lost your deer.

I still can't see how you shot for 30 yards on a 36 yard deer and still hit high. You should have hit low or missed. Maybe it was the shakes or buck fever.

I meant what I said about coming over to my house and fixing your problems.

 

[erik1972]

LAST EDITED ON Oct-15-07 AT 06:30AM (MST)[p]I can reassure that my 100 and 125 grain field tips hit at exactly the same spot up to 40 yards. I have and will not ever shoot farther then that. I even asked two local pro shops here in Ohio and they said they probably will hit the same at least to 30 and maybe drop alittle at 40. They also seem to think the reason the 125 don't drop as much is because maybe my FOC needs the heavier head and therefore making them fly better. I don't know!

The Slick Tricks are not mechanicals. Everybody seems to love them. I tried last night, three other broadheads and had terrible isuues with them. The Wacems flew low and left, the Wasps flew left and the Slick Tricks flew 6" high.

That means one is too stiff and the other means my knocking point is too low. This just doesn't make sense.

Erik

 

[3blade]

your bow is not tuned right, that is all there is to it. Take a morning or whatever and use the easton guide and tune it like they outline. Once you do that I bet all those heads hit darn close to your field points. Especially the tricks and wacems, and if thats a wasp boss bullet it should be right in there as well.

 

[Bullcanyon]

Yep out of tune. TUne it up and you should be back in business.

Sorry to hear of your loss. Nothing worse for a hunter to have happen.

 

[BigPig]

LAST EDITED ON Oct-15-07 AT 10:51AM (MST)[p]LAST EDITED ON Oct-15-07 AT 10:37?AM (MST)

Don't bash the broadhead man. You bow sounds like it is way out of tune. Stick with either 100 or 125 for both field tips AND broadheads. Slick Tricks are fine broadheads and will do the job every time if you do yours. In this case it sounds like you did not.

Did you practice with your broadheads before hunting with them? You sounded surprised to find out that fixed blades did not fly with your field points. This is all something that you need to test before hitting the field. If they hit high then you should tune that out. With most setups, some tuning is necessary. Chalk this up as a hard lesson learned.

Changing blades should not effect a thing. Pick one of those heads (they are all good) and download the Easton Arrow Tuning Guide. Read the section on broadhead tuning and make rest adjustments until the broadheads and your field tips hit together. It's really easy to do if you follow the guide.


Sounds like you hit that critter above the spine. I bet he's a little sore, but getting along just fine.

http://www.wildernessathlete.org/ because the most important piece of equipment you own is YOU!

 

[huntn30inchers]

I cant say for sure what happened with your deer but I had a similar experience with slick tricks. When I got my new set up I was experimenting with broadheads and couldnt get the slicks to shoot very well, they were not all missing one way, but each arrow would do the same thing over and over same with the magnus stingers. I thought that it was me or that my bow was out of tune, but I put on some Montecs and they shot spot on with my field points, I had my bow checked out and it was tuned perfectly. I know much less about this kind of stuff than alot of guys on here but I do know that trying different broadheads to see which one worked best for my bow helped alot, kind of expensive testing though.

 

[erik1972]

I just talked to the archery shop that I got the Mathews at he wants me to bring it in. He said paper tuning really doesn't show actual arrow flight. He said we will paper up a piece of paper with some black tape and do a vertical line test. We did paper tune the bow earlier and shot bullet holes. The Easton Tuning Guide has me confused. It says adjust the nock for to high of a shot with broadheads. Then it says for the ones that are left to move the rest in. I cant move the rest anymore left.

I am going in tonight to see him.

Thanks, Erik

 

[BigPig]

There is rarely any such thing as having your bow "tuned perfectly" so that it will shoot each and every broadhead the same and always with field points. With most set ups, I've found that one type of head may fly perfectly and one may be a bit off. That doesn't mean that the one that flies perfectly is any better than the one that is off. It just reacts differenly with your setup. Sometimes you might have to fine tune the bow a bit for each specific broadhead and arrow combination that you want to shoot. Bottome line, you always can't blame the broadhead if it doesn't react the way you want it to.

http://www.wildernessathlete.org/ because the most important piece of equipment you own is YOU!

 

[JLTD]

the type of arrows you are shooting could have alot to do with is too. some are just plain crap

Just Living The Dream

 

[erik1972]

I went to the bow shop last night and he went all over my bow again. We center shot it at 10ft, 20yards and 30 yards and it was dead on. I guess I will chalk this one up to bad broadhead flight and me not tuning the broadheads as good as I should have.

Now my dilema, I need some more broadheads. What brand should I look into? I still like the Slick Tricks but they seem to be in low supply around here. There plenty of Magnus Stingers and have read some good articles on them?

Thanks, Erik

 

[3blade]

LAST EDITED ON Oct-16-07 AT 08:26AM (MST)[p]LAST EDITED ON Oct-16-07 AT 08:23 AM (MST)

well, I'm glad you might have this figured out. I have used Magnus Stingers, the Magnus Snuffer SS, Slick Tricks, NAP Thunderheads, Muzzys, Wacems, G5 Strikers, and they all work well. But my fav has to be the Stinger 4 blade. I can get them scary sharp on a fine S-24 hone with about 15 light swipes per side. Everything I have ever shot with them falls over within 50 yds. Deer, elk, it doesn't matter. Blood trails have always been excellent and a child could follow no problem. Some animals had no idea they were shot but the arrow spooked them from hitting the bushes after the arrow passes through, they bolt a little and look around like what was that and then fall over. I have an unwavering confidence in this head and would use it to shoot anything. They fly right with my field points out to 70 yds. Whatever you choose I wish you luck Erik!

 

[erik1972]

3blade, I heard many good things about Stinger broadheads and the owner of the bow shop told he tries to sell them to everybody because he knows they work. I told him if they don't fly true then I am coming back and he is going to help me get them in tune. He said, no problem. I would like to try the Rage but no body has them in stock.

These stingers look alot like the Steelforce heads I used a few years ago. I liked them but they would bend up bad if they hit a bone. The Magnus Stingers are definetely thicker blades. We will see how they fly tonight!

Thanks again, Erik

 

[3blade]

never tried the steelforce heads but am considering the new Phat head since I like to try new heads. Why I don't know cause I always come back to the stingers. As far as bending I have never had that problem. Here check this out:

http://archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=564494&highlight=stinger

 

[BigPig]

Center shot, paper tuning, and walk back tuning are just a starting point. All that does not at all mean that your bow is tuned to shoot broadheads. After doing all that, you will still probably need to make rest adjustments to get FT's and BH's to hit together. Again, Slick Tricks are just fine broadheads and could be tuned to shoot well. Stingers are fine too, as are most of the broadheads out there. Just don't expect them to fly spot on either without some adjustment, no matter how well you think your bow is tuned now. And if they don't fly perfectly at first, don't blame the broadhead. If they do fly right on without any adjustments, consider yourself lucky as that doesn't usually happen.


http://www.wildernessathlete.org/ because the most important piece of equipment you own is YOU!

 

[Magnus100]

You can't go wrong with the Magnus Stingers. I like the plain old 2-blade 100 grain version. My forum name probably is a dead give-away to what I am partial to.
Mike

 

[erik1972]

I went to two different bow shops in town this past weekend and they looked my Mathews Switchback over real good. The place I bought it at said nothing was wrong it is tuned right. The other bow shop said everything was good except for a little bit of idler wheel lean. He made some adjustment then I went home.

I read all the posts I could on this on Mathews Forums and after actually doing some measurements myself, I think I found out what was wrong. Both places said my center shot was fine, but I measured it myself and it was set at 5/8" instead of the standard 11/16 to 13/16". I moved the rest out to 11/16" and started to shoot.

GUESS WHAT! I started shooting Rages and the Stingers in 2" groups out to 40 yards. I can't say if it was the idler lean issue or my rest being off a hair. But I got it fixed and feel 100% confident in my shooting now!!!

Thanks everybody for the help!!!

Erik