Sharping a knife
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bobcatbess
Guest
Beefy!!!
I BOUGHT A LANSKY SEVERAL YEARS AGO!!!
HAS LIKE 3 OR 4 DIFFERENT ANGLES YOU CAN USE!!!
HAS LIKE 5 DIFFERENT STONES YOU CAN USE!!!
TAKES THE GUESS OUT OF IT!!!
AND ITS DAMN QUICK!!!
NOT REALLY SOMETHING YOU PACK WITH YOU THOUGH!!!
I KNOW HOW YOU DULLED YOUR KNIFE!!!
THE ONLY bobcat THAT KNOWS ALOT OF YOU HAVE HAD THIS IMAGE IN YOUR PEA BRAIN BUT DUE TO POOR SHOOTING TACTICS I'M STILL KICKIN!!!
I BOUGHT A LANSKY SEVERAL YEARS AGO!!!
HAS LIKE 3 OR 4 DIFFERENT ANGLES YOU CAN USE!!!
HAS LIKE 5 DIFFERENT STONES YOU CAN USE!!!
TAKES THE GUESS OUT OF IT!!!
AND ITS DAMN QUICK!!!
NOT REALLY SOMETHING YOU PACK WITH YOU THOUGH!!!
I KNOW HOW YOU DULLED YOUR KNIFE!!!
THE ONLY bobcat THAT KNOWS ALOT OF YOU HAVE HAD THIS IMAGE IN YOUR PEA BRAIN BUT DUE TO POOR SHOOTING TACTICS I'M STILL KICKIN!!!
Beefy,
I'm an old whet-rock guy myself.
I get'em where I want'em on an old
whet-rock, hit'em a few licks on a hard
arkansas stone, then stroke'em a few licks
on a good Steal.
Thats me. Everybody does it a little different
it seems.
Larry
That's women. If you want to talk knives, we'll
do that later.
(just kidding)
I'm an old whet-rock guy myself.
I get'em where I want'em on an old
whet-rock, hit'em a few licks on a hard
arkansas stone, then stroke'em a few licks
on a good Steal.
Thats me. Everybody does it a little different
it seems.
Larry
That's women. If you want to talk knives, we'll
do that later.
(just kidding)
BeanMan
Long Time Member
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LAST EDITED ON Nov-12-07 AT 08:29PM (MST)[p]I never could sharpen a knife to save my life. Used lansky's and whetstones and only seemed to make them worse. A friend sent me these http://jantzsupply.com/cartease/item-detail.cfm?ID=WKS800 and I put them on a small bench grinder. I am amazed at how sharp I can make my knives now and how little time it takes. Your grinder motor will have to be a smaller diameter than the wheels in order to do both sides of the knife. Just never turn the edge of the blade into the wheel. Bad things happen quickly...I now have a full face mask eye guard because I almost ended up with a blade sticking out of me. Be careful.
BeanMan
BeanMan
RELH
Long Time Member
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- 17,534
Eelgrass;
Just send those knives, you pay postage both ways and I will not charge you. but, when you get them back, they will shave hair and I don't want to hear about how you cut yourself on that "damn Hatfield knife". both of my daughter-in-laws have been to the doc for stiches in their hands after using one of my knives when they were use to using a half sharp kitchen knife.
As for the question about sharping, if you have problems using a wet stone, try the Lansky, it takes the guess work out of keeping the same correct angle while sharping. You only need the three stone kit, no need to pay the extra money for the five stone kit. Very simple to use and has easy instructions to follow. On hunting knives I prefer using the 20 degree angle. I also carry a small Eze-Lap model Lf diamond stone in my shirt pocket for touch up in the field. It is a diamond sharpener in 600 grit. Under 10 bucks at most sporting good stores.
RELH
Just send those knives, you pay postage both ways and I will not charge you. but, when you get them back, they will shave hair and I don't want to hear about how you cut yourself on that "damn Hatfield knife". both of my daughter-in-laws have been to the doc for stiches in their hands after using one of my knives when they were use to using a half sharp kitchen knife.
As for the question about sharping, if you have problems using a wet stone, try the Lansky, it takes the guess work out of keeping the same correct angle while sharping. You only need the three stone kit, no need to pay the extra money for the five stone kit. Very simple to use and has easy instructions to follow. On hunting knives I prefer using the 20 degree angle. I also carry a small Eze-Lap model Lf diamond stone in my shirt pocket for touch up in the field. It is a diamond sharpener in 600 grit. Under 10 bucks at most sporting good stores.
RELH
E
ELKabong
Guest
No no no...
Here is how it is done.
Place yer Arky stone in yer left palm, like this.
Now get a good perchase with yer thumb up along side 'an barely over the top like this.
Now tip over just a touch of Budwieser Select, that ought to do it... Place the stone against yer belly.
Now grip yer knife in yer right hand 'an stroke hard 'an fast like this-
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHGGGGGAAAAAAAAAAAGGGGGAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA!!!!!!!!!!
Here is how it is done.
Place yer Arky stone in yer left palm, like this.
Now get a good perchase with yer thumb up along side 'an barely over the top like this.
Now tip over just a touch of Budwieser Select, that ought to do it... Place the stone against yer belly.
Now grip yer knife in yer right hand 'an stroke hard 'an fast like this-
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHGGGGGAAAAAAAAAAAGGGGGAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA!!!!!!!!!!
HunterHarry
Long Time Member
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- 5,003
Been using a knife every day as a butcher for thirty years.
I like the three sided oil stone.
It has coarse, medium and fine surfaces.
Get a good edge, keep the proper angle and use a good sharpening steel.
That edge will roll over after a while.
The steel will get it tuned up again, use the proper angle on the steel too.
I take a full size steel along on my back pack trips too, nothing worse than trying to bone out a buck or a bull with a dull knife, good way to hurt yourself.
I caped, skinned & boned out four big bull Caribou one afternoon on the Alaskan tundra with a $20.00 six inch stainless Forschner knife.
Made short work of them by using my trusty sharpening steel to keep my edge razor sharp.
HH
I like the three sided oil stone.
It has coarse, medium and fine surfaces.
Get a good edge, keep the proper angle and use a good sharpening steel.
That edge will roll over after a while.
The steel will get it tuned up again, use the proper angle on the steel too.
I take a full size steel along on my back pack trips too, nothing worse than trying to bone out a buck or a bull with a dull knife, good way to hurt yourself.
I caped, skinned & boned out four big bull Caribou one afternoon on the Alaskan tundra with a $20.00 six inch stainless Forschner knife.
Made short work of them by using my trusty sharpening steel to keep my edge razor sharp.
HH
Fred,
I had a friend that had one of those things you're
talking about and could get a knife razor sharp.
I bought one and never could master it. Went back to
the old way.
Harry,
I bet you're partial to carbon steel on your knives.
Lord, I am. They're softer, but sharpen back up easier.
I'm with ya on the carrying a full size steel.
lrv
I had a friend that had one of those things you're
talking about and could get a knife razor sharp.
I bought one and never could master it. Went back to
the old way.
Harry,
I bet you're partial to carbon steel on your knives.
Lord, I am. They're softer, but sharpen back up easier.
I'm with ya on the carrying a full size steel.
lrv
RELH
Long Time Member
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- 17,534
LAST EDITED ON Nov-13-07 AT 08:02PM (MST)[p]Irv;
Most factory carbon steel, and SS knives are around 55-57Rc for hardness and like you said will dull faster, but are easy to touch up. most custom knife makers will take that O-1, 1095, L-6 carbon steel and heat treat it and you end up with 60-62RC hardness that will hold a edge though 2-3 deer or one elk with ease, and that is field dressing and skinning-boning out. But the drawback is you will need a diamond stone or ceramic stone to touch it up with any speed. You also have to know how to sharpen, and the average hunter, not all, have a problem with doing that right.
RELH
Most factory carbon steel, and SS knives are around 55-57Rc for hardness and like you said will dull faster, but are easy to touch up. most custom knife makers will take that O-1, 1095, L-6 carbon steel and heat treat it and you end up with 60-62RC hardness that will hold a edge though 2-3 deer or one elk with ease, and that is field dressing and skinning-boning out. But the drawback is you will need a diamond stone or ceramic stone to touch it up with any speed. You also have to know how to sharpen, and the average hunter, not all, have a problem with doing that right.
RELH
Now, I realized years ago that I ain't seen everything....but along with the 15" bases on the other thread, I would need to see any knife that will gut, skin and butcher 2-3 deer or 1 elk. I doubt that's possible.
I'm 60 years old, so "this ain't my first rodeo", but I must have missed somethin' at the last 25 or so SHOT shows? Just what company makes such a tool?
I'm 60 years old, so "this ain't my first rodeo", but I must have missed somethin' at the last 25 or so SHOT shows? Just what company makes such a tool?
>Now, I realized years ago that
>I ain't seen everything....but along
>with the 15" bases on
>the other thread, I would
>need to see any knife
>that will gut, skin and
>butcher 2-3 deer or 1
>elk. I doubt that's possible.
>
>
> I'm 60 years old, so
>"this ain't my first rodeo",
>but I must have missed
>somethin' at the last 25
>or so SHOT shows? Just
>what company makes such a
>tool?
Try turning it over and use the sharp side
I have skinned and de-boned a whole deer without touching up the edge with one of my cheaper knives. Now I could imagine a knife with good steel could do a couple at a time.
>I ain't seen everything....but along
>with the 15" bases on
>the other thread, I would
>need to see any knife
>that will gut, skin and
>butcher 2-3 deer or 1
>elk. I doubt that's possible.
>
>
> I'm 60 years old, so
>"this ain't my first rodeo",
>but I must have missed
>somethin' at the last 25
>or so SHOT shows? Just
>what company makes such a
>tool?
Try turning it over and use the sharp side
I have skinned and de-boned a whole deer without touching up the edge with one of my cheaper knives. Now I could imagine a knife with good steel could do a couple at a time.
RELH
Long Time Member
- Messages
- 17,534
LAST EDITED ON Nov-14-07 AT 02:15AM (MST)[p]Nickman;
I am sixty years old myself. I have used several knives where I have field dressed, skinned, and boned out two-three deer or a combination of deer and antelope without stopping to resharpen, that also included using the knife to rip open the chest cavity from the lowest rib bone to the top rib with two cuts. None of those knives were a "factory" knife. Full custom made out of D-2 steel or S30V steel and heat treated to a hardness of 60-61RC with a convex grind on the cutting edge.
I have also watched a knife maker, who forged his knives out of high carbon steel, take that knife and cut a 3/4 inch rope with a easy swipe of the blade, then plunge the knife twice into the side of a metal 55 gal barrel and cut that rope again with a easy swipe of the blade. I don't know of any "factory" knife that will do that.
Proper heat treating is the key to having a very good cutting edge that will hold up for longer periods of time. This is one area that most factories take cost cutting shortcuts, along with using cheaper steels to cut corners.
Buck knives has a decent heat treating program, but it was set up for them by Paul Bros who is one of the top knife heat treating experts in this country.
You need to quit using those cheap 29 dollar Wal mart specials made in B.F.Egypt.
A lot of factory knives today are being made out of AUS-6, 440A, 440B steel that any decent custom maker would not use if you gave him the steel instead of him having to buy it.
how many factory knives do you have that has stamped on them 440 steel, 400, This was done by factories trying to fool you into thinking you were getting 440C stainless steel, instead you got 440A or 440B that is almost impossible to get harder then 54-55Rc which is very soft for good knife steels. AUS-6 is almost a copy that comes out of japan. AUS-8 is a little better. Research "Engnath knife albums" on the web and see what a master knife maker has to say about some of the steels being used today.
RELH
I am sixty years old myself. I have used several knives where I have field dressed, skinned, and boned out two-three deer or a combination of deer and antelope without stopping to resharpen, that also included using the knife to rip open the chest cavity from the lowest rib bone to the top rib with two cuts. None of those knives were a "factory" knife. Full custom made out of D-2 steel or S30V steel and heat treated to a hardness of 60-61RC with a convex grind on the cutting edge.
I have also watched a knife maker, who forged his knives out of high carbon steel, take that knife and cut a 3/4 inch rope with a easy swipe of the blade, then plunge the knife twice into the side of a metal 55 gal barrel and cut that rope again with a easy swipe of the blade. I don't know of any "factory" knife that will do that.
Proper heat treating is the key to having a very good cutting edge that will hold up for longer periods of time. This is one area that most factories take cost cutting shortcuts, along with using cheaper steels to cut corners.
Buck knives has a decent heat treating program, but it was set up for them by Paul Bros who is one of the top knife heat treating experts in this country.
You need to quit using those cheap 29 dollar Wal mart specials made in B.F.Egypt.
A lot of factory knives today are being made out of AUS-6, 440A, 440B steel that any decent custom maker would not use if you gave him the steel instead of him having to buy it.
how many factory knives do you have that has stamped on them 440 steel, 400, This was done by factories trying to fool you into thinking you were getting 440C stainless steel, instead you got 440A or 440B that is almost impossible to get harder then 54-55Rc which is very soft for good knife steels. AUS-6 is almost a copy that comes out of japan. AUS-8 is a little better. Research "Engnath knife albums" on the web and see what a master knife maker has to say about some of the steels being used today.
RELH
I appreciate the info.....I run a sporting goods store and have access to every knife on the commercial market, but I just simply sharpen about 4 knives and get to cuttin'. I use ceramic and diamond stones for touch up, along with a full size steel.
I grew up on a cattle ranch and butchering was a regular activity, but even then, we were constantly having to touch up the blades.
I now do about 6 elk and 10 deer each season, plus beef and sheep on occasion. Guess I'll do some more research. Thanks again.
I grew up on a cattle ranch and butchering was a regular activity, but even then, we were constantly having to touch up the blades.
I now do about 6 elk and 10 deer each season, plus beef and sheep on occasion. Guess I'll do some more research. Thanks again.
belt sander with an 800 grit belt. use a 320 and 500 first if the blade has nicks that need to be removed. Anyway keep it cold with ice water dip after each pass, very light passes until a wire edge is raised, then use a paper buffing wheel to remove the wire edge. It will shave hair
B
buncoboy
Guest
RELH, so where does one buy one of those knifes that go through a rope and barrel ?
RELH
Long Time Member
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- 17,534
LAST EDITED ON Nov-14-07 AT 05:19PM (MST)[p]I can not remember the makers name, been over 5 years, but he has his shop just outside Branson,MS. Most of his knives are bowies & fighters, he does make hunters on occasion.
Only drawback to his knives, outside of the size, is that they will rust, high carbon steel, not stainless, if you do not take care of them.
You should attend the trials for knifemakers trying to get their Master bladesmith rating. You might be surprised what a top quality forged knife can do.
Must be able to chop though one or two 2X4s without chipping the edge, then still be able to shave hair. Then they have to bend the knife 90 degrees with out breaking the blade in two. It requires very special heat treating for a knive to survive this test. It requires deferential heat treating of the blade where the spine is a lot softer then the cutting edge. I have never heard of any factory knife that can pass the test, nor will air quenched stainless steel blades pass this test.
I am surpised at the hunters that will spend top dollar on rifles, scopes, spotting scopes, binocs, and will carry a cheap 29-60 dollar knife into the field and expect it to preform like the high dollar stuff when they have to field dress that animal.
I can understand the hunter who is on a tight budget and must watch his dollars and just buy what he can afford. He will buy a factory knife in the price range he can afford and hopefully know how to sharpen it in the field. But there is guys on here who will not bat a eye on spending 700-1000 bucks on optics and over twice that much on a rifle, but buy a cheap or mediocre knife to use on a DIY hunt.
If I was limited to buying a factory knife due to price constraints, I would give the newer Buck S30V drop point hunters a serious consideration. S30V stainless steel was the first steel that was made for use in knive blades and a lot of input for that steel was at reccomendations of top knife makers working with CPM to make it. Also Paul Bros sit up the heat treating for Buck and that tells me that Buck is not taking any shortcuts on their heat treating.
If you like stainless for it's ease in maintance and being rust resistance, S30V is very hard to beat for factory knives or customs. You will pay a little more for it, but if you have problems sharpening a knife, stay away from the harder steels, it will be a nightmare for you to sharpen.
RELH
Only drawback to his knives, outside of the size, is that they will rust, high carbon steel, not stainless, if you do not take care of them.
You should attend the trials for knifemakers trying to get their Master bladesmith rating. You might be surprised what a top quality forged knife can do.
Must be able to chop though one or two 2X4s without chipping the edge, then still be able to shave hair. Then they have to bend the knife 90 degrees with out breaking the blade in two. It requires very special heat treating for a knive to survive this test. It requires deferential heat treating of the blade where the spine is a lot softer then the cutting edge. I have never heard of any factory knife that can pass the test, nor will air quenched stainless steel blades pass this test.
I am surpised at the hunters that will spend top dollar on rifles, scopes, spotting scopes, binocs, and will carry a cheap 29-60 dollar knife into the field and expect it to preform like the high dollar stuff when they have to field dress that animal.
I can understand the hunter who is on a tight budget and must watch his dollars and just buy what he can afford. He will buy a factory knife in the price range he can afford and hopefully know how to sharpen it in the field. But there is guys on here who will not bat a eye on spending 700-1000 bucks on optics and over twice that much on a rifle, but buy a cheap or mediocre knife to use on a DIY hunt.
If I was limited to buying a factory knife due to price constraints, I would give the newer Buck S30V drop point hunters a serious consideration. S30V stainless steel was the first steel that was made for use in knive blades and a lot of input for that steel was at reccomendations of top knife makers working with CPM to make it. Also Paul Bros sit up the heat treating for Buck and that tells me that Buck is not taking any shortcuts on their heat treating.
If you like stainless for it's ease in maintance and being rust resistance, S30V is very hard to beat for factory knives or customs. You will pay a little more for it, but if you have problems sharpening a knife, stay away from the harder steels, it will be a nightmare for you to sharpen.
RELH
Mr. Hatfield,
I appreciate you helping me with this.
You make the best looking knives I've ever seen
bar-none.
I'm gonna get me one of'em before to long. Want one
pretty'r than D'13's......
Good to hear from you sir.
You're a jewel to have on this site.
Larry
I appreciate you helping me with this.
You make the best looking knives I've ever seen
bar-none.
I'm gonna get me one of'em before to long. Want one
pretty'r than D'13's......
Good to hear from you sir.
You're a jewel to have on this site.
Larry
HunterHarry
Long Time Member
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I've threatened to get a custom.
Gene Ingram makes some outstanding utilitarian blades.
Beautiful simplicity...
9IMG]http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f281/brdeano/Knifeshit/100_1351.jpg[/IMG]
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v136/BigStick/Stuff/Knifeshit.jpg]/IMG]
Another is Charles May of Aberdeen Ms.
Beautiful work.
[IMG]http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d63/HunterHarry/kn0.jpg
Gene Ingram makes some outstanding utilitarian blades.
Beautiful simplicity...
9IMG]http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f281/brdeano/Knifeshit/100_1351.jpg[/IMG]
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v136/BigStick/Stuff/Knifeshit.jpg]/IMG]
Another is Charles May of Aberdeen Ms.
Beautiful work.
[IMG]http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d63/HunterHarry/kn0.jpg
RELH
Long Time Member
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- 17,534
HunterHarry;
I like the style of those knives, clean simple flowing lines. Most of them have micarta handle scales which are almost indestructable and a fine choice on a field knife that will see hard use. But, you have to admit, those two desert ironwood knives would make a great conversation pulling it out around the camefire.
I like the style of those knives, clean simple flowing lines. Most of them have micarta handle scales which are almost indestructable and a fine choice on a field knife that will see hard use. But, you have to admit, those two desert ironwood knives would make a great conversation pulling it out around the camefire.
B
buncoboy
Guest
RELH, thanks for the info., guess I am going to improve my knife situation for the next season, now lets see, I think it is almost Christmas time, hmmm, I am thinking I gots to to be nice between now and then!!
eelgrass
Long Time Member
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- 31,708
Some guys hunt pheasants and ducks because they like to watch the dogs work. I would like to kill a buck just to have the pleasure of skinning it with a knife like this! I will have one some day!
http://cgi.ebay.com/Hatfield-custom...ryZ43325QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
From our own RELH
Eel
http://cgi.ebay.com/Hatfield-custom...ryZ43325QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
From our own RELH
Eel
B
buncoboy
Guest
RELH, Funny you should mention that. In 1988 I was on an elk trip with my partner. Our wives got together (poor timing on our part) and when we got home there was new furniture at our homes. The wives came up with a new phrase, and now live by it, "dollar for dollar". They expect to spend a dollar on whatever they want to match each hunting, fishing, etc. dollar we spend. So her wants are expensive, had to take her to Europe last year to match my hunting expenses. Ouch!
