I HAVE SAVED UP ALOT OF ARIZ. ELK POINTS, MY GUIDE SAYS I WILL NEVER GET A RIFLE TAG...BUY A BOW. I'VE ALWAYS WANTED TO BOW HUNT...SO I NEED TO GET A BOW AND PRACTICE FOR A YEAR OR TWO. THEN I CAN ALSO USE IT FOR HOGS & DEER HERE AT HOME. I HAVE READ ALOT OF POSTS IN THIS SECTION...AND CHOICES GET CONFUSING AS WHAT TO BUY. WITH ALL THE NEEDED ACCESSORIES PLUS A GOOD BOW HOW MUCH $$$ AM I LOOKING AT ?? I SEE THE BEAR LINE OF BOWS ARE AFFORDABLE, HAVE HAD A FRIEND SAY STICK WITH THE PSE,HOYT, OR MATTHEWS... ??? I WILL GO THE MY LOCAL ARCHERY SHOP TODAY FOR A LOOK & ADVICE. HOW LONG IS A BOW GOOD FOR AS LONG WARE OUT, OR DO THE LAST 5-10 YEARS?? I,VE GOT SOME WORK TO DO...THANKS FOR YOUR TIME.......YD.
NEW BOW HUNTER HERE...HELP!
- Thread starter YukonDall
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fugitive
Very Active Member
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- 1,004
Yukon,
I agree with your friend on the bows. Although the best thing for you to do is go to that archery shop and shoot every bow they have and then buy the one that feels most comfortable to you. As far as wear, It is a lot like a gun. If you take care of it and change your strings every couple years and keep them waxed up they will last untill you are ready for the new top of the line bow. I just sold a bow that was in great condition ive had for 8 years. the only reason I got rid of it was because I have a new one and all it ever did was sit in the closet. Beware though. Once you harvest an animal with a bow you will never look at a rifle in the samw way again. Good luck on your future hunts.
If quizzes are quizzical, what are tests?
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa289/carmenagudo/funny_icons_.jpg
I agree with your friend on the bows. Although the best thing for you to do is go to that archery shop and shoot every bow they have and then buy the one that feels most comfortable to you. As far as wear, It is a lot like a gun. If you take care of it and change your strings every couple years and keep them waxed up they will last untill you are ready for the new top of the line bow. I just sold a bow that was in great condition ive had for 8 years. the only reason I got rid of it was because I have a new one and all it ever did was sit in the closet. Beware though. Once you harvest an animal with a bow you will never look at a rifle in the samw way again. Good luck on your future hunts.
If quizzes are quizzical, what are tests?
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa289/carmenagudo/funny_icons_.jpg
You are on the right track. Head to your local pro shop. Shoot everything you can get your hands on. In my experience there is usually quite a difference in obvious quality, feel and performance between top of the line bows and anything less. From what I have read of your previous posts, you seem to be a hardcore hunter. My advice to you would be to not skimp. It will only cost you more in the long run. If your first bowhunting experience is going to be chasing after rutting AZ bulls, I guarantee you will be hooked. Buying quality first will keep you from having to upgrade in a year or two, which I can almost guarantee you'll do if you buy less up front. Personally I'd stick with Hoyt, Mathews, Bowtech. They are the big 3 and for good reason. The performance and quality of any of the top of the line will be very close so you'll need to shoot one of each to determine what feels best to you. Bows are all about personal feel. Don't be swayed by what your buddy shoots. Only you can make the decision after shooting.
Once you've picked the bow, have your pro shop guy to get you set up with the right accessories and arrows. Then practice. I'd recommend a lesson, or at the very minimum a good book/video on shooting form, so you don't develop bad habits that will be hard to cure later on.
You are on the road to developing a serious addiction.
http://www.wildernessathlete.org/ because the most important piece of equipment you own is YOU!
Once you've picked the bow, have your pro shop guy to get you set up with the right accessories and arrows. Then practice. I'd recommend a lesson, or at the very minimum a good book/video on shooting form, so you don't develop bad habits that will be hard to cure later on.
You are on the road to developing a serious addiction.
http://www.wildernessathlete.org/ because the most important piece of equipment you own is YOU!
Check out Randy Ulmers site http://www.randyulmer.com/
Tons of excellent info on there for any bowhunter regardless of experience.
This guy know archery inside and out, he puts in the time to understand, experiment, test the gear out there, and I'm sure he has had every bow maker in the world beg him to prostaff for them.
What does he shoot? Hoyt.
IMO in light of all the new 2008 models on the shelves, the Hoyt Vectrix from 07 is still the best bow out there. Escepcially for someone starting out, smooth forgiving cams, fast, extremely durable, and a very forgiving 7 1/2" brace height. And on top of all that, being its last years model, you can pick up a brand new one for $400-$500, compared to this years $870 price tag for the Ketera.
Add on a:
Spot Hogg site $100-$200
Rip cord drop away rest $90
Limbsaver stabalizer $30
Any quiver you like $20-60
Scott or Carter release $40-$90
Easton Axis arrows $99-120
And G5 Striker broadheads. $60
Out the door ready to hunt at a little over $1000.
With a top 3, 2008 bow, more like $1300-$1400.
Oh dont forget you need tagerts as well. $30-$40 for a nice field point bag, $60 or so for a decent broadhead target.
Really, go ready Randys Articles, Cameron Hanes' Book is a good one too.
Tons of excellent info on there for any bowhunter regardless of experience.
This guy know archery inside and out, he puts in the time to understand, experiment, test the gear out there, and I'm sure he has had every bow maker in the world beg him to prostaff for them.
What does he shoot? Hoyt.
IMO in light of all the new 2008 models on the shelves, the Hoyt Vectrix from 07 is still the best bow out there. Escepcially for someone starting out, smooth forgiving cams, fast, extremely durable, and a very forgiving 7 1/2" brace height. And on top of all that, being its last years model, you can pick up a brand new one for $400-$500, compared to this years $870 price tag for the Ketera.
Add on a:
Spot Hogg site $100-$200
Rip cord drop away rest $90
Limbsaver stabalizer $30
Any quiver you like $20-60
Scott or Carter release $40-$90
Easton Axis arrows $99-120
And G5 Striker broadheads. $60
Out the door ready to hunt at a little over $1000.
With a top 3, 2008 bow, more like $1300-$1400.
Oh dont forget you need tagerts as well. $30-$40 for a nice field point bag, $60 or so for a decent broadhead target.
Really, go ready Randys Articles, Cameron Hanes' Book is a good one too.
bragabit
Active Member
- Messages
- 811
Yukon.
Right now is a great time to shop for a bow. All the shops should be clearing out their 07 models so they have room for 08. Usually you can save 1 to 2 hundred dollars. My advice would also be go to a real archery pro shop. Sportmans, and cabelas are ok but you will be set up better and treated better in the future by going to a local Pro shop. I would agree shoot Hoyt, Matthews, and bowtech. Pick the one that feels best no matter what any one elss says.
Right now is a great time to shop for a bow. All the shops should be clearing out their 07 models so they have room for 08. Usually you can save 1 to 2 hundred dollars. My advice would also be go to a real archery pro shop. Sportmans, and cabelas are ok but you will be set up better and treated better in the future by going to a local Pro shop. I would agree shoot Hoyt, Matthews, and bowtech. Pick the one that feels best no matter what any one elss says.
You're right, it will, as did I 4 years ago when I picked up my first bow and hit the tagert at 20 yards! Man was I fired up. I bought a used mid range bow off my buddy, and shot it up until a month ago. Loved it the first year, the more experience and hands on I had with other bows, the more I recognized its short comings. In the end, money talks, and I shot it a couple more years till I could afford what I wanted.
Its really not a bad way to start out that way, but dang if your gonna drop all your AZ points on and archery tag, I'd be going in with a worry free set-up.
Its really not a bad way to start out that way, but dang if your gonna drop all your AZ points on and archery tag, I'd be going in with a worry free set-up.
LAST EDITED ON Feb-14-08 AT 10:26AM (MST)[p]I can see how you might think that, but it won't. The difference will be obvious. Shoot a junky bow and then shoot a nice one and you will notice immediately. A nicer bow will be smooth to draw, nice and quiet, and will not vibrate or shock your hand. A cheap bow will be loud, feel rickety, and will want to jump out of your hand at the shot. It's the difference in driving a Pinto and a Caddilac.
http://www.wildernessathlete.com/ because the most important piece of equipment you own is YOU!
http://www.sitkagear.com/ Turning clothing into gear.
http://www.wildernessathlete.com/ because the most important piece of equipment you own is YOU!
http://www.sitkagear.com/ Turning clothing into gear.
As a newly addicted Bowhunter, I can feel your pain. With so many choices and so many different opinions; where does one start? I researched for a long time on equipment and how to choose the right items for me. The internet and magazines and Sportsman's and other hunters ultimately guided me toward my choice - Fred Bear Truth. Reason: If you are just starting out, you have no REAL idea if it is going to be something you are going to stick with or enjoy. Pick something mid-range with good reliability and reviews because you can always upgrade later if you become addicted like the rest of us just as Fugitive said. Plus, this affords you the luxury of buying a little higher end accessories.
Websites like the one ForkWest gave and others like Hunter's Friend [( http://huntersfriend.com/ ) in their "Technical Help" section and this forum can save you lots of time and troubles. And of course; your local Pro Shop, whoever it may be.
Previous years models are great and Ebay can be good too, but if you go to your Local Pro Shop and other Archery Shops enough and just listen as others talk and then build up confidence to ask them questions in their choices; good deals will just seem to fall in your lap; whether from the store or the new friends you just made trying to learn something new. Three things I found before I become addicted: 1)Bowhunters like to share their knowledge and experieince and build that comradery. 2) Don't be affraid to ask questions. 3) Shoot and get the feel for what is comfortable in your hands. If you don't like it, you ain't gonna shoot it.
Good Luck, and let us know what you decided on.
PS.
It doesn't take years of practice; just the right moment with the right bull/buck with the right attitude and the right equipment for you!
Websites like the one ForkWest gave and others like Hunter's Friend [( http://huntersfriend.com/ ) in their "Technical Help" section and this forum can save you lots of time and troubles. And of course; your local Pro Shop, whoever it may be.
Previous years models are great and Ebay can be good too, but if you go to your Local Pro Shop and other Archery Shops enough and just listen as others talk and then build up confidence to ask them questions in their choices; good deals will just seem to fall in your lap; whether from the store or the new friends you just made trying to learn something new. Three things I found before I become addicted: 1)Bowhunters like to share their knowledge and experieince and build that comradery. 2) Don't be affraid to ask questions. 3) Shoot and get the feel for what is comfortable in your hands. If you don't like it, you ain't gonna shoot it.
Good Luck, and let us know what you decided on.
PS.
It doesn't take years of practice; just the right moment with the right bull/buck with the right attitude and the right equipment for you!
A
Addicted
Guest
Go to your local shop and shoot, shoot, shoot. Ill agree with forkwest the vetrix is an awesome bow. But buy what you like and what works for you. Your shop can help lead you in the right direction.
Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave in a well preserved body, but to skid in sideways totally worn out shouting HOLY SH!T WHAT A RIDE!!!
Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave in a well preserved body, but to skid in sideways totally worn out shouting HOLY SH!T WHAT A RIDE!!!
T
timberline_shedfreak24
Guest
It takes some experience to shoot the new PSE X-Force, definately not a beginners bow, however I love mine and shoot it well. Your lookin at $1200.00 minimum for the complete set up, bow, arrows, release etc. Let me know if I can help. PM if ya'd like and I'd be more than happy to help ya.
Timberline
"Live for somethin' or die for nothin'"
Timberline
"Live for somethin' or die for nothin'"
LAST EDITED ON Feb-14-08 AT 12:53PM (MST)[p]LAST EDITED ON Feb-14-08 AT 12:52?PM (MST)
LAST EDITED ON Feb-14-08 AT 12:39?PM (MST)
YD there are plenty of real nice bows out there for you to shoot. The good news is with the equipment available today you'll be ready this year if you get drawn. You can actually pick up one of these modern bows and if your practice be pretty good in 3-5 months with 2-4 sessions per week. Go to a pro shop and get measured and shoot a few models and visit another shop to check out the brands they carry too. That way you have the basis for comparision. There is a thread on here about new bows for 2008 that will point you in the right direction. You will need a bow,rest,release,2-3 dozen arrows,sight 4-6 pins, stabilizer, sling, quiver bow & field and a case to keep it in. This should run you in the range of $800-$1200 depending on what you select. Shoot carbon arrows and if the shop will give you a few lessons in the package do it! Archery is all about consistancy and repetition to shoot well. Good luck and you can PM me if you need any help! Shoot some target & 3D archery to get you familiar with the yardages in the field. By the way YD you can shoot an elk with a 50-60 lb. bow and kill them just as easily as with a 60-70 lb bow.it may be easier for you with a setup in this range.
LAST EDITED ON Feb-14-08 AT 12:39?PM (MST)
YD there are plenty of real nice bows out there for you to shoot. The good news is with the equipment available today you'll be ready this year if you get drawn. You can actually pick up one of these modern bows and if your practice be pretty good in 3-5 months with 2-4 sessions per week. Go to a pro shop and get measured and shoot a few models and visit another shop to check out the brands they carry too. That way you have the basis for comparision. There is a thread on here about new bows for 2008 that will point you in the right direction. You will need a bow,rest,release,2-3 dozen arrows,sight 4-6 pins, stabilizer, sling, quiver bow & field and a case to keep it in. This should run you in the range of $800-$1200 depending on what you select. Shoot carbon arrows and if the shop will give you a few lessons in the package do it! Archery is all about consistancy and repetition to shoot well. Good luck and you can PM me if you need any help! Shoot some target & 3D archery to get you familiar with the yardages in the field. By the way YD you can shoot an elk with a 50-60 lb. bow and kill them just as easily as with a 60-70 lb bow.it may be easier for you with a setup in this range.
OK...JUST GOT BACK. MY BOW SHOP REALLY PUSHES THE HOYT LINE, THEY ARE COOL PEOPLE, WORK ON YOUR BOW FOR FREE WHEN YOU BUY IT THERE (50 BUCKS OTHERWISE), GOOD ADVICE AND SO ON. TODAY I ONLY SHOT HOYTS, I DONT THINK I NEED THE CADDILAC TOP OF THE LINE, I SHOT WITH AMAZEMENT THE HOYT AVENGER PACKAGE DEAL WITH 7 OR 8 ACCESSORIES ATTACHED. I KNEW IT WOULD FEEL FANTASTIC, COMPARED TO MY OLD 1975 JENNINGS COMPOUND. REALLY SHORT, LIGHT, QUIET & SMOOTH FOR $699.00....I REALLY LIKED IT. WHAT DO YOU FELLAS THINK ABOUT THE QUALITY OF THIS PACKAGE/PRICE.....YD.
T
timberline_shedfreak24
Guest
LMAO!
Timberline
"Live for somethin' or die for nothin'"
Timberline
"Live for somethin' or die for nothin'"
More specifics please.
Details on the accesories.
How much for the bow alone? or is it only sold as a package deal?
Price dosen't sound that bad, but sometimes they like to throw some garabge sights/rests on there.
Looked up the Avenger on the Hoyt site, looks like a respectable mid range bow. You rarely hear about the big name midrange bows, its always the flagship bows the get all the press.
If you're liking Hoyt, may want to check out Reflex, made by Hoyt, very similar, also a budget line.
Details on the accesories.
How much for the bow alone? or is it only sold as a package deal?
Price dosen't sound that bad, but sometimes they like to throw some garabge sights/rests on there.
Looked up the Avenger on the Hoyt site, looks like a respectable mid range bow. You rarely hear about the big name midrange bows, its always the flagship bows the get all the press.
If you're liking Hoyt, may want to check out Reflex, made by Hoyt, very similar, also a budget line.
YD one of the reasons we suggested shooting several bows is because of the way different models feel at the shot. Did your dealer carry any of the parallel limbs bows that you may have shot and in any different brands? I have shot Hoyt for years and I shoot an ultratec but there are some other great bows out there a guy needs to look at today. You'll only be doing this now and it'll last you for the next 7-10 years or longer. Archery like I said before is about consistancy and feel has a lot to do with being consistant. I'm not trying to nudge you in any direction just get you to try a few other models,(if you didn't) so you can understand the different way they feel at the shot. The avenger is a good quality bow with the good limbs and a good easily adjustable cam system on it so it's no junker by any means. Hoyt makes good stuff!
Good, but make sure you shoot several others before settling too. That Avenger might feel great now, but after shooting a Mathews Drenalin or a Bowtech Guardian or similar, it might feel like crap in comparison.
http://www.wildernessathlete.com/ because the most important piece of equipment you own is YOU!
http://www.sitkagear.com/ Turning clothing into gear.
http://www.wildernessathlete.com/ because the most important piece of equipment you own is YOU!
http://www.sitkagear.com/ Turning clothing into gear.
oilcan
Long Time Member
- Messages
- 3,789
Yukon IMO i would not buy the Hoyt without shooting the other brands.Don't get me wrong i shoot a Hoyt and have for the last 10 years and have had no problems with it, but you really should try to compare the bows to see what feels better in YOUR hands not the guys working in the shop.I will be getting a new bow in the next month or so and i will be shooting all the majer brands.I am getting close to having enough points to draw Elk tags in Arizona and Colorado and possibly Utah and i want my bow to be the last thing i need to worry about.
YES, I PLAN TO SHOOT SEVERAL BRANDS IN THE COMMING WEEKS/MONTHS & NOT REALLY SURE WHEN I WILL BUY ONE (NO HURRY). AS FAR AS ALL THE EXCESSORIES AT THIS POINT I DONT KNOW ALL THE BRAND NAMES. I THINK I WILL END UP SPENDING COUNTLESS HOURS IN THE SHOP BEFORE I BUY ONE. I LEARNED A TON TODAY AS I HAD THE OWNER ONE ON ONE FOR AN HOUR...GOOD GUY. THANKS AGAIN FOR YOUR INFO./ I JUST THINK MY NEEDS ARE MIDDLE OF THE ROAD ON QUAILTY THOUGH I COULD THINK DIFFERENT IN A MONTH.....THX....YD.
eelgrass
Long Time Member
- Messages
- 32,047
YD, I went through the same thing last year at this time that you're going through right now. I still get a headache thinking about it. LOL! I shot 'em all. Several times! There are lots of sweet bows out there.
Once I got my setup, I was AMAZED at how fast I got the hang of it. I practiced twice a day for about three weeks at first. Each session was only like a dozen shots. I was plunking them in there pretty good at 40 yards.
Do yourself a favor and shoot as many different bows as you can. It's fun, and when you do finally decide on the bow for you, you will have a feeling of confidence. And confidence plays a big role in archery.
Good luck Dave!
Steve
Once I got my setup, I was AMAZED at how fast I got the hang of it. I practiced twice a day for about three weeks at first. Each session was only like a dozen shots. I was plunking them in there pretty good at 40 yards.
Do yourself a favor and shoot as many different bows as you can. It's fun, and when you do finally decide on the bow for you, you will have a feeling of confidence. And confidence plays a big role in archery.
Good luck Dave!
Steve
YD, there is a guy in the Bow Equipment forum over on Jesses Hunting Page selling a loaded 07 Mathews Drenalin for $800. That is a top shelf bow at a mid range price.
http://www.wildernessathlete.com/ because the most important piece of equipment you own is YOU!
http://www.sitkagear.com/ Turning clothing into gear.
http://www.wildernessathlete.com/ because the most important piece of equipment you own is YOU!
http://www.sitkagear.com/ Turning clothing into gear.
Dave,
You're getting into it at a Great time.
Ton's of top quality archery equipment out there.
I shoot a Hoyt, but there are lots, and lots of
great bows, sights, rests, releases, ect, ect out
there right now.
Good luck sir. Keep us updated. You may fall in
Love with it.
Larry
You're getting into it at a Great time.
Ton's of top quality archery equipment out there.
I shoot a Hoyt, but there are lots, and lots of
great bows, sights, rests, releases, ect, ect out
there right now.
Good luck sir. Keep us updated. You may fall in
Love with it.
Larry
LAST EDITED ON Feb-15-08 AT 08:13AM (MST)[p]YD before you buy ANYTHING on the internet make sure you have drawn one back at that draw length to test the length. Contrary to popular belief all draw lengths by manufacturers are not the same and are not adjustable! Some bows are cam specific as to draw length. This will alleviate you buying a bow for a good price and then have to go and buy a new cam at $140.00 more. Just a word of caution! If you know it fits then you're ok but a good pro shop adds value to any purchase unless you can work on the bow yourself then it's a mute point.
One more thing to consider in relation to Draw weight:
Compound bows come in a variety of maximum draw weights, but the most common are the 50-60# and 60-70# versions. Although you may purchase a bow with 70# limbs, you can generally adjust the draw weight 1-10# down from the maximum weight. So a 70# bow could actually be adjusted for 61#, 64#, 67#, or any draw weight within the allowable range. However, it should be noted that a 70# bow, turned down to 60#, will not perform as well as the same bow in a 60# version operating at it's maximum draw weight. Bows are generally more efficient at or near their maximum draw weight.
Compound bows come in a variety of maximum draw weights, but the most common are the 50-60# and 60-70# versions. Although you may purchase a bow with 70# limbs, you can generally adjust the draw weight 1-10# down from the maximum weight. So a 70# bow could actually be adjusted for 61#, 64#, 67#, or any draw weight within the allowable range. However, it should be noted that a 70# bow, turned down to 60#, will not perform as well as the same bow in a 60# version operating at it's maximum draw weight. Bows are generally more efficient at or near their maximum draw weight.
