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nontypical250
Guest
I would like some suggestions on what people think about mechanical broadheads. Does anyone use them on elk? Are they worth looking into, also what kinds are better than others.
Do a search on this or any archery forum. You'll find lots of info. Conventional wisdom generally indicates that you want to use a sturdy fixed blade head for elk. Find one that you like, practice with it and put it in the right place and you will have one dead elk.
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NMHUNTNUTT1
Guest
I killed my first elk with 100 grain two blade vortex . Made a bad shot , angling towards me at 21 yards , but the tracking was tough , she went nearly 1/2 a mile , bedding every while . I know the broadhead would have performed better had I done my part on making a better shot . I also watched my partner slamm his bull at 30 yards , the bull whirled to run , cow called and he hung up again in view . Bubbles were sliding along the arrow shaft with every breath , never went more than 40 or so yards , worked just right . I know they've made em better since then , but I don't shoot them anymore , too many other broadheads that fly just as good and are fixed blades , I now shoot rocket ultimate steel 100s' , they are awesome and fly great . Complete pass through on my elk in 03 , never knew what hit him , just zipped right through him , less than 20 seconds and he was down.....I agree with above post too , find one you like , research it and fit it properly with arrow weight and your bow , make text book shots and you'll do fine ...
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elk_horn
Guest
I Used a 100 grain rocket stealhead on a 5 point elk the broadhead did its job.. Elk went maybe 60 yards and went down for good.
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nontypical250
Guest
Thanks for the input. Has anyone ever used those Crimson Talon broadheads? 100 or 125 grain? How do they fly compared to a field point?
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redelkarcher
Guest
I have heard some good about the Crimson Talons but I shoot Rocket steelheads as well and I love em'... My group of buddies that I hunt with all shoot this same head and we have nothing but success stories to tell about them. To answer you question about arrow flight being the same as you get with field points, I think that you will find that with most expandables it is pretty dang close to the same but if ya shoot fixed heads you usually have to work with them a little to get the arrow flight you need. Anyways just my 02 on it all.
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elk_horn
Guest
I shoot the steelhead 100s but Idaho wont allow them so I bought the Magnus stinger 4 blade and went to the range and shot them today
they shot just like my field tips... So I think I will use them in Idaho this year.
they shot just like my field tips... So I think I will use them in Idaho this year.
dryflyelk
Active Member
- Messages
- 842
Most people on archerytalk.com (probably the best archery site on the net) seem to think that the snyper by rocky mountain is the best mechanical broadhead out there. There is a fellow by the name of 5 shot that tests just about every broad head by shooting them through a bunch of different things, like oranges, metal drums, concrete, whatever, and he has a scoring system to determine which is best, and I think the snyper comes out on top for the mechs.
That said, I used one on my elk hunt last year. One of the things I do NOT like about it is that it uses a small rubber band to keep the blades in place. I ended up hitting a cow elk further back than I would have liked and got a complete passthrough. Long story short, after a few days of trailing her, we never found her. Blood trail was almost non existent. From here on out I am using a 4 blade broadhead that everyone seems to love called the slick trick. Ive shot a few and they seem to be the ticket, plus there is about twice as much combined cutting diameter as I was using with the snyper, so hopefully I'll get better blood trails.
Go to archerytalk.com and do a search on slick tricks. I think you'll like them. Plus, they're only 22 bucks for 3 of them.
That said, I used one on my elk hunt last year. One of the things I do NOT like about it is that it uses a small rubber band to keep the blades in place. I ended up hitting a cow elk further back than I would have liked and got a complete passthrough. Long story short, after a few days of trailing her, we never found her. Blood trail was almost non existent. From here on out I am using a 4 blade broadhead that everyone seems to love called the slick trick. Ive shot a few and they seem to be the ticket, plus there is about twice as much combined cutting diameter as I was using with the snyper, so hopefully I'll get better blood trails.
Go to archerytalk.com and do a search on slick tricks. I think you'll like them. Plus, they're only 22 bucks for 3 of them.
cmiddleton
Very Active Member
- Messages
- 1,214
i wouldn't recomend a expandable blade anymore i have taken elk with them but last year i had a failure one blade cought first and openedbefore the others. it flipped the arrow and lost alot of penatration i still got my elk but was not happy with the penatration or the angle the arrow intered. i was on the ground lower than the elk but the arrow looked like i shot it from a tree stand.
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cpugsie
Guest
That's exactly why you should use a Rocky Mountain Snyper. The blades open rearwardly and prevent any pole vaulting that is common with angles shots from a jackknife style mechanical. The Snyper as well as the G5 Tekon and the new Rage broadheads are the only mechanical to use!
Carl
Carl
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DesertDiesel
Guest
> I ended up hitting
>a cow elk further back
>than I would have liked
>and got a complete passthrough.
> Long story short, after
>a few days of trailing
>her, we never found her.
> Blood trail was almost
>non existent.
Sounds like the head did its job but the shooter didn't. I don't care what type of head you use, if you make a bad shot, you're gonna have trouble tracking the animal.
>a cow elk further back
>than I would have liked
>and got a complete passthrough.
> Long story short, after
>a few days of trailing
>her, we never found her.
> Blood trail was almost
>non existent.
Sounds like the head did its job but the shooter didn't. I don't care what type of head you use, if you make a bad shot, you're gonna have trouble tracking the animal.
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elkaddiction
Guest
If you are insistent about using mechanicals on elk, I'd use either the snyper or the TekkanII. Both have modest cutting diameters and open in such a manner as to get maximum penetration. I've used the Snypers on wild hogs (which I think is an excellent media for testing penetration because of the thick shield over the vitals) and was favorably impressed. Still, my choice is a fixed blade head out of well tuned bow. Give the slick tricks a try--they've shot exactly with field points out of every reasonably well tuned bow I've ever shot them out of. They penetrate very well while leaving a large 4 bladed hole. I also would recomend wac'ems. They penetrate very well and will also likely shoot right with your field tips.
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FairChaser
Guest
My thoughts on MB's
They are mechanical, meaning that they have multiple parts which must work properly, every time, to be effective. The more parts, the more chance of something going wrong. Bowhunting can, at times, be a rugged sport.
Some are more reliable than others...as mentioned above, how do you figure out the good from the bad.
They act like a barbed hook. Once they go in, you cannot pull them out (backwards). I'm not sure that this is good for the animal, especially on a marginal hit and I question how the public views any type of barbed weapon.
If its a tuning/flight question, try some of new smaller broadheads first.
They are mechanical, meaning that they have multiple parts which must work properly, every time, to be effective. The more parts, the more chance of something going wrong. Bowhunting can, at times, be a rugged sport.
Some are more reliable than others...as mentioned above, how do you figure out the good from the bad.
They act like a barbed hook. Once they go in, you cannot pull them out (backwards). I'm not sure that this is good for the animal, especially on a marginal hit and I question how the public views any type of barbed weapon.
If its a tuning/flight question, try some of new smaller broadheads first.
