I Need a String-Gun - HELP!

[TFinalshot]

I need a new string-gun. It's time for me to take up the bow. I can put the time into shooting that once I was not able too. Today, I have enough time and a place where I can shoot as often as I want/need. So I think it's time to get busy.

I also have a deal with my uncle (he's got his own cub and he's bow hunter in Alaska) that he'll invite me hunt with him if I hang up the long gun. So, I need to know from some of you experts, what type of package or outfit or just a bow I should look into. I want something that will last, and something that is capable of killing middle to larger North American mammals, not including grizzlies. . .

I want to buy new, and I plan to have one fitted to me. I just want some honest opinions before I go let some archery shop sell me the bow they can make the most money on. . .

Is it better to buy a package, or buy a bow then put components on it. I want to spend about a grand for the whole deal, including arrows. I'm not even sure if that's realistic.

I'm a lifelong deer and elk hunter. I've shot a few bows but it's been 20 years ago and i've never hunted with one. I know how to get close, so i'm really looking for hardware advice and not someone to tell me that I better pack a lunch because bow hunting is hard. . .LOL

Take care, thanks for the help. . .




"Roadless areas, in general, represent some of the best fish and wildlife habitat on public lands. The bad news is that there is nothing positive about a road where fish and wildlife habitat are concerned -- absolutely nothing." (B&C Professor, Jack Ward Thomas, Fair Chase, Fall 2005, p.10).

 

[HullinPhx]

Tony-

Welcome to the dark side, you are in luck one of the best bows made just came out. The PSE X-force is out there now. I do not have it yet but I will be buying it. It shoots very very fast, it may not be the best starter bow but I am sure you can figure it out. I would buy the bow seperate and add everything else 1 piece at a time. A lot of the bows that come ready to hunt dont have the best accessories on it. As far as your budget you will be able to get a great bow.

Good Luck

Lets us know what you decide

John

 

[fin little]

Check out huntersfriend.com . All kinds of information and some good prices on tuned and ready to hunt pkgs.

 

[eelgrass]

Tony, I'm doing the exact same thing right now! I've been going to all the local archery shops and shooting every bow I can. BowTech, Diamond, Hoyt, and Mathews so far. I'm looking at huntersfriend. com too. Lots of good info there.

I don't know how to tune a bow so I think it best to rely on a local pro. Somebody I can take my bow back to if a problem arises, or if questions come up. I also need hands on help picking sights, rests, arrows, etc. When I pick the bow I want, then I'm going to "work a package deal" with that shop, if possible.

I've been at this seriously for about 3 months, LOL! The shops must be getting tired of me by now. I found it's best to call ahead to make sure the right guy is there and to give him the time to set up a bow for me to shoot.

I think they are all pretty darn nice! I fell in love with a BowTech Tribute the other day. It just felt right to me. Plus I like the guy who sells them.

Good luck to you. If you shoot a bow like you shoot a photograph you'll do great!

Eel

 

[a3dhunter]

You can get everything you need for maybe a little more than $1000 for the best, so you shouldn't worry too much about that. Decide what you want from a bow first.

Bow-$500-700
sight-$75
rest-$75
stabilizer-$20
Arrows-$100
Release-$30-40 (or more!)


I will pm you some recommendations.
There are plenty of entry level bows that cost a lot less and will hunt just fine.

 

[TFinalshot]

Thanks you guys! I'll keep up my search. I went to that friends site too, some great deals and good info.

There are a couple of bow shops within 140 miles of my house so I'll have to make a point of stopping in. I just wanted to "get on paper" before I go have some guy sell me something I dont really need.

On of my biggest concerns is in getting a bow that I can grow into, but not one that is so advanced that I'll never learn to shoot it properly. I do need good equipment, but I also want a bow that is a bit forgiving to an amature. My guess is some of the hightech stuff is more ridged or made more for guys who really know how to shoot well.

Thanks again for all your advise/help!!!

 

[idahoelkinstructor]

LAST EDITED ON May-03-07 AT 09:58PM (MST) by BOHNTR (moderator)[p]LAST EDITED ON May-03-07 AT 09:47 PM (MST)



Tony, before you buy a bow I would take this next month to find out as much about bows as possiable. Get your hands on as many bowhunting mags as you can. Also a few (learning) equipment videos/DVD's may be helpful from manufactures such as Easton Arrows and others. Inadditon to that the internet is a wealth of info, besides the archery section here in MM I very much recomend these archery other sites. (I'll list them at the end)Another good idea is to find a good pro shop in your area. There are good ones and some are bad. To learn which is what search out your local archery clubs and talk to as many members as you can. As with rifle hunters, archers are not afraid to speak thier mind and let you know what shops have given them great service and which shop are in it for the sale only. Of course people will be biased, but that is why I say talk to as many people you can. After that pick several shop and go test some bows. Only you can determine what shop and what bow feels best for you. I myslef work part time in a pro shop, as well as teach bowhunters education. I have worked with and helped many new beginners get set up even if they didn't buy from the shop I work at. If you have any questions feel free to ask away. Between us all someone will know the answer! Education is simply the exchange of ideas!

One last thing the PSE X is fast, but with a 6" brace height it has to be unforgiving. Not the best beginers bow to say the least, I haven't shot it yet, but just by looking at it and reading the reviews its a experts bow at best.

 

[ismith]

Tony,
My dad bought a bow at Big Sky Archery in Kalispell. The owner seemed knowledgable and the service was great. I agree that you should try as many bows out as you can before commiting to a particular one. with $1000 you can get a heck of a set up. I could recommend a few brands but I really think you would be better off deciding on one yourself. I will recommend black gold sights though since Ive had good luck with them (and they are made in Bozeman, MT). I should also mention they have a unconditional lifetime garrentee thats hard to beat. Good luck with your search!
ismith

 

[TFinalshot]

Again, thanks for all the help! I'm greatful.

I'll tell Big Sky, when I'm there, that they come recomended.

 

[ForkWest]

LAST EDITED ON May-04-07 AT 10:45AM (MST)[p]LAST EDITED ON May-04-07 AT 09:54?AM (MST) by BOHNTR (moderator)

I follow this train of thought:

I DO have enough time to shoot and put in the needed practice, and be fairly familiar with my equiptment. But I DON'T have and don't spend a fraction of the time that the pros put into their equiptment, which comes from hours upon hours of trials, experimenting, and research. These guys have been there, done that. It's their life, It's their living, they KNOW! I'm not talking range shooters, I'm talking tried and true hunters. If it's good enough for these guys, its good enough for me. Check out what these guys have to say. Ulmers site is my favorite, pages and pages of insight/information. Some of what they say is pretty suprising, doesn't follow the emerging trends that alot of the advertisments/bow shops are pushing.


Randy Ulmer
http://www.randyulmer.com/my-gear/
Cameron Hanes
http://www.cameronhanes.com/
Chuck Adams

 

[springbear]

LAST EDITED ON May-04-07 AT 10:40AM (MST)[p]Anything R. Ulmer or C. Adams says is likely pretty good.

my opinion:

Hoyt bow (vtrix is the new hot rod)(also it is the second generation "trykon" so many of the bugs have been worked out)

Toxonics site (meatlopic 5 pin)
Spott hogg, fuse, black gold are all good

Whisker biscut rest (hunting rest)
if you are sold on a drop away, make sure and do some research on them first.

Quick release quiver (I have a Hoyt, but I think Fuse Satori is better.)

Easton arrows. Axis ST if carbon, XX78 if AL.

Muzzy Mx-3 if you want a replacable blade cone tip.
magnus stinger if you want a cut on contact.
I stay away from mechanicals.

Feather fletchings with a helical.
(I still think a wet tore up feather spins a broad head better than a new plastic vane)

Scott release (pick one you like best) i would not get a "glove type" release; they get in the way especially if you ever deal with horses.

Obviously, shoot a string loop and have a peep and string silencer instaled. (get a "hunting" peep, not a smaller target)

Two lines of thought on setups, light and fast or slower with more KE. (same bow, same pounds)
I have always leaned towards shooting a heavier set up as fast as I can. Meaning, I set my draw weight as heavy as I can pull under a high amount of stress. (big bull screaming down my neck at an awkward angle). My hunting arrows weigh 480 grains.. yes you do loose a little in the trajectory out past 40 yards, but it will penetrate better. and if you know the distance, it doesn't matter anyway. Be wary of shooting a fixed blade broadhead over 300 fps.. you might run into tuning issues.

Finally, welcome back to bow hunting. Now matter what set up you choose, you will wonder why you ever quit..

And do us all a favor and never call archery hunting or archery gear a "string-gun" on here again......

 

[BigPig]

Stay with top of the line stuff and you will be fine for many years to come. Head to your local bow shop and shoot what they have. YOU need to be the one to decide, not anyone else. Bows are all based on feel. Buy the one that feels best to you. That said, the big three are Mathews, Bowtech and Hoyt. Stick with one of these three and you really can't go wrong. Again, just go with what feels right to you, not what the salesperson thinks you should buy. Then buy good components. Brands are probably less important if you just buy quality. Yes, that might be a bit more expensive. If you want to be specific, I think anything Spot Hogg would be a great choice for a sight. For a rest, the Trophy Ridge Drop Zone, the Ripcord and the Trophy Taker are all very good. As for releases, it is hard to go wrong with Scott. Others are good too, just try a few and decide what you like. You'll need a stabilizer too. I like the modular one from Simms, and the Doinker is good too. Stick some Limb Savers on the inside of the limbs and you should be just about set.

When it comes to arrows and broadheads, that is a whole 'nother can of worms. I think all are pretty good. Just make absolutely sure that the arrow is spined properly for your draw length, your bow's poundage, and the arrow tip weight. Stick with a good quality fixed blade broadhead and tune your bow so that it shoots to the same point of impact as your field points.

For big game (but not including grizz) you'll be fine with a bow that has 60-70 lb limbs. Just shoot a moderately heavy arrow over 400 grains. This will be plenty for anyting you are likely to face.

 

[hntnfsh67]

Eel,

Are you going to Todd at Bucksport? If so he is a great guy.





Matt
"Opportunity is missed by most people
because its dressed in overalls
and looks like work."
Thomas Edison

 

[hntnfsh67]

"And do us all a favor and never call archery hunting or archery gear a "string-gun" on here again......"

LMAO.........too funny. One of my hunting buddies calls his rifle a "fast bow".

Matt
"Opportunity is missed by most people
because its dressed in overalls
and looks like work."
Thomas Edison

 

[NickJ1980]

Tony,

I recomend a Mathews, Hoyt, or Darton (the last 2 are in no particular order). Unless things have really changed I'm not a fan of PSE. In fact, I don't even know anyone personally who shoots one anymore, but obviously some guys here do.

Check out the warranty offer and you'll know who's got the quality. I've had to test the waranty on my Mathews Outback (100% my fault both times) and the local pro shop took care of it same day both times at no cost.

It still shoots arrow damaging groups, and I've been harder on it than most guys would be.

By the way, thanks again for the copy of the picture for my presentation--everyone was absolutely spellbound and I know it wasn't the sound my voice.

Nick

 

[eelgrass]

Matt, yes I've been working with Todd for awhile now. He seems very knowlegable. His wife just had a baby so he hasn't been in much lately. Did you know that Ralph Rice passed away? He opened that store in 1948, I think. A true icon who will be missed. They're all good people down at Bucksport.

Steve

 

[slider]

Tony if Archery is something you are going to tackle no matter what? (miss animals,blow stocks,wind changes? its endless with archey)I would recommend top of the line equipment.Mathews,Bowteck,Hoyt are the top three? Mathews has the best resale value. All top of the line equipment will run $1200.00-$1400.00.Yes $1200.00-$1400.00 that was not a miss print!!! You can buy a one year old bow ready to go on E-Bay for $600.00? If you would like send me a pm and I will help you decide!!! Good Luck

 

[ajensen83]

now days most bows are well made, there are a few brands to stay away from but they are usually the lower end bows...

Try archerytalk.com... lots of good information there... but be careful a lot of guys are very brand biased, which isnt bad but that doesnt mean you will like it as much as they do..

You cant go wrong with Hoyt, Mathews, Bowtech (there have been a lot of complaints on some of the newer bowtech although I have never seen any of the problems)... look at the Ross Cardia and CR334 also, they are great bows....

The 6 inch brace height is not nearly as big of a problem as it used to be... I shoot a 6 in brace bow, the hoyt vulcan, and I shoot it at least as well as a lot of guys shoot their bigger braced bows... this last years group of bows have been really good... welcome to an addicting sport