Gunstock refinish

[DeerMadness]

LAST EDITED ON Dec-30-10 AT 11:31AM (MST)[p]I sanded down the stock with 100 grit using a block when posssible then went to 220 and spent a few hours of light sanding getting a very nice even job. Then after cleaning and drying time I used a stain /sealer- no varnish I like to keep stocks up with linseed.
This was my first stock refinish and I used a Superdeck brand sealer stain. It came out a real pretty mahogany color after 2 coats. Should I use a couple more coats or will it just end up getting tacky ?

BTW- a guy wanted 350.00 to refinish, I did a great job and it cost 2.00 for sandpaper and the store gave me a sample can of Superdeck finish for free!!
I know the 350.00 included restamping . I will post a pic if someone wants ro see what it looks like.

 

[elkun]

thiers a little more to it than that. but good job...

 

[DeerMadness]

LAST EDITED ON Dec-30-10 AT 03:32PM (MST)[p]I didn't want a varnish finish. What do you mean a little more to it? I know I didn't restamp the checkering but it still stands out well. This gun will get beat up quicker with varnish than an oiled stock. Let me hear your input..

fixed some typos. I can spell with anyone but typing is horrid.

 

[RELH]

I am not familar with "Super Deck Sealer". If it is a sealer only, you are not finished. You need a more protective coat to keep out the moisture and other elements.

I normally sand down to a 400 grit and then apply several coats of sealer. I will also sand with wet 400 grit to knock the sealer back to the surface of the wood as I want to fill the pores of the wood level with the surface by using the sealer as a filler also. You can also use #0000 steel wool to do this. Just be sure not to leave any steel wool particles sticking in the wood.

Then the stock gets anywhere from 4 to 10 coats of Tru-oil or linspeed oil for the final finish. First two coats go on heavy allowed to dry and sanded back with wet 400 grit sandpaper. This should finish the job of filling the pores even with the surface of the wood. If you hold the stock up to a bright light and see glints of light reflecting, like little diamonds, you have not filled the pores even with the surface. apply another heavy coat and wet sand back and check for light reflection again.

The final two-six coats are applied very thin and rubbed in with the hand for a very thin even coat. You do not want any runs or high spots at this point, just a thin rubbed in coat.

Allow plenty of time between coats to dry. After finishing you have a high gloss finish. If you want a satin finish, use a very fine rubbing compound to knock the shine down and bring out the color and grain of the stock.

Use a rubbing compound that is made for stockwork, you can get it where stock finishing supplys are sold.

RELH

 

[DeerMadness]

Thanks RELH,
I just added another coat and will sand and give it a couple more coats. I used a soft cloth for all the coats so far and hand rubbed.

 

[bogey]

Of the handful I have done, I followed a well known stock makers way of doing it. After sanding to about 200 I then used a 50/50 mix of spar varnish and mineral spirits soaked the stock in as much of this as it will take. This is only to seal the wood. Then apply a small area of your chosen finish to the stock with my fingers, wet sand this so the finish and wood dust mixes to kind of a mess, very lightly wipe this off. Let this dry for three days as you want the finish dust mix to fill the pores and dry in the pores. Repeat this process tell the pores are mostly filled. Then progress through finer grades(6oo or so) of paper tell the pores are totally filled and you have a great looking stock. This is really in the wood at this point and you can add a few costs to the top to give a better shine and more protection. Slow but it works great.