Burnt euro help

MuddyBoots

Active Member
Messages
185
I self admittedly screwed the pooch and fell asleep on the job resulting in all the water cooking off inside the metal tub I was using to do a euro on this year’s buck. I’ve done several in the past with great success so I’m going to chalk this up to complacency. The skull is no longer and the antlers, even though I wrapped them, took on some burnt on grime. I’m now going to have to resort to using just an antler mounting kit. My question is, has anyone some good ideas on how to remove the burnt on grime near the antler bases? I tried steel wool with Borax and a Brillo pad which took off some but around the eye guards and burrs it still leaves much to be desired.
 
It's tough to say without any photos to show what they look like?

You may want to start over? I often use the combination of steel wool, sand paper, and a sanding block to start things off. Then blend in with different colored stains to match the rest of the antler. It takes patience to make it look real with several layers and colors. It may take trial and error to figure out the right colors and intensity of colors to match.

It's good to have examples of sheds or other antlers to figure out the colors. I've brought chalky sheds back to life and your case shouldn't be too terribly tough.

If you have any questions you are welcome to pm me. I've repaired a lot of antlers over the past few years. Even repaired a bunch of broken tines.
 
Pressure wash with hot water and tide, I used to do buffalo and that’s what I did. I had a 200 g tank and would do 9 at a time they would get pretty grimy. The tide helps breakup and lift the burnt and built up fats and proteins
 
As Dang Big mentioned adding soap is a great idea. A lot of taxidermy guys say that it's tough to beat Dawn soap. It's also a good idea to add Borax that keeps bugs away. I totally remove the nasal cavity. It's impossible to get all the small tissue inside the nose out without doing this which is just asking for bug problems.

My preference for bleaching the skull is paste rather than liquid. You can pick this up at beauty supply stores. I use the highest concentration available. I paint the paste on with a brush, scrub, and wash it off between treatments. I like bleaching to a bone color rather than brilliant white...but that's just me.
 
The best way to get rid of all the Cartlidge is to spray bottle where the Cartlidge and then add crystal Drano to it spray it again with water gently and let it dissolve the Cartlidge and then wash The crystals are caustic which eats the proteins
 
I dont worry about getting a perfect white. I have plenty that are white. So i mixed it up. I use stone in a can. Here is one several i have done to break up all the white ones i got on the wall

20201214_191846.jpg
 

Click-a-Pic ... Details & Bigger Photos
Back
Top Bottom