Broadhead question

[craig_k]

I started shooting my thunder head 100's today. I am having problems with them. If I shoot three one will go low, one high and one to the left. They look to be flying straight until the last few yards then curve one way or the other. Only a few times I have two of them close to each other. What could be causing this problem. I have the fletchings and blades lined up. Can anyone help me on this problem?

I am shooting a Mathews Q2 at 65 pounds
28" Easton Excel's
Thunder head 100's

 

[BOHNTR]

I would guess, just by your explanation, that your arrows are not properly spined for the broadheads you're shooting.

BOHNTR )))---------->

 

[archeryelkaholic]

1st, number the arrows or mark them in some way so you can tell them apart.

How did the same arrows shoot with field points?

If you shoot the same arrow over and over where does it hit? Try this with field points and broadheads.

Not sure what type of rest you have but are you SURE there is no fletching contact?

Archer

 

[MBM]

Agree with above. Number your arrows and see if the same arrow is hitting the same place everytime. If they are all over the place I would suspect how straight the heads are on the shaft, your shooting form, or as metioned above your arrow spine.

Mark

 

[muleybull]

Buy a box of thunderhead 85's. I actually know of a lot of people that just couldnt get the 100's to fly good, regardless of spline or tuning.

It could be you need to paper tune your bow, but if you've taken care of that, its just some kind of common broadhead problem.

Good luck............let us know if you try the 85's and how they work.

 

[muleybull]

One more thing, try aligning your broadheads with your fletching. Sometimes that is all it takes.

 

[craig_k]

Thanks for all the help. I talked to the guy at the archery shop and he said to paper tune my bow first. I started doing that and it was way off. During the process I broke my rest. So I guess I solved my problem for the time!! I am looking at going with the trophy taker shaky hunter. Is that a good rest? I have to get it done quick for my archery bull hunt in 7w. Again, thanks for the help.

Craig

 

[archeryelkaholic]

Just get a rest and tune it. That is as good as any. Better hurry with that tag.

Then do the above and let us know how it is going.

Archer

 

[muleybull]

I shoot the shakey hunter and love it.

 

[BOHNTR]

I agree with archeryelkaholic. Once you buy your new rest AND tune your bow, sight in your boradheads and keep practicing. Don't worry too much about indexing your vanes with your broadhead blades, as it actually does nothing for your accuracy in terms of arrow flight.

If you're still getting inconsistent flight after all the above mentioned has been completed, a number of other issues may need to be addressed, including but not limited to arrow spine. Keep us posted and good luck.

BOHNTR )))---------->

 

[T_WARD]

Try using an ASD arrow squaring device it cuts the end of your insert nice and square made a huge difference with mine archery shop should be able to get you one.

 

[coonhound40]

Make sure you spin your arrows with the broadhead mounted. If the broadhead does not spin straight it will not shoot straight. It makes it much easier if you pickup an arrow spinning tool, all your archery cataloges sell them. I havn't found a broadhead that doesn't shoot well if my arrow is spined correctly and if the broadhead is true to the shaft. I shoot Muzzy 100grn 3 blades, I generally cull 25% of them when I check them for true. Sometimes you can try them on different arrows and get them to spin true or mix and match tips, but sometimes you just have to junk a few.

 

[craig_k]

OK, I really need help. I put on the trophy taker shaky hunter and love it. I paper tuned my bow and it was good. I shot the thunder heads and they did the same thing, all over the place. My brother came over (it's like 200 yds between or houses) and I shot the crimson talon's and crimson raptor's. Both flew and grouped very well out to 50 yds. The talon's 2-3" low and the raptor's flew like field points. This is where I need help. I am hunting elk. The raptor is a cut on contact fixed blade with two mechanical blades. The talon is a fixed three blade. My brother has shot hogs up to 300 lbs with pass throughs with both the raptor and talon. Has anyone shot these and taken an elk or game of that size? If I shoot the talon's I will have to adjust my sights a little which is not a problem. If I shoot the raptor's everything is set. What do y'all think? I have taken elk with thunder heads with another bow. I have never shot fixed blades out of this bow. Any help on this will be appreciated.

Craig

 

[BOHNTR]

Craig:

Order some Wac'em or Stinger heads and get ready for the hunt.

Seriously, with your bow set at 65 pounds, I'd sight in the talons and shoot the fixed (replaceable) bladed head for elk if you like them. 2-3" is not a major issue with todays sights, IMO.

BOHNTR )))---------->

 

[archeryelkaholic]

Shoot fixed blades on Elk. I promise you it is the right thing to do.

Archer

 

[archeryelkaholic]

Looks like the Talon has a head MUCH like the Muzzy. Go with it and don't look back.

 

[archeryelkaholic]

I should have just said to do what BOHNTR said. He is on the money.

 

[Serrano]

My new 100 grain Montec G5s give me 50% more penetration on the broadhead target than my 100 grain Thunderheads. 8" for the Thunderheads and 12" for the Montec G5's. I had a bad experience with a mechanical broadhead only penetrating 1 lung on a big bull, so I am sold. The Thunderheads have a larger cutting diameter though.
Ken

 

[craig_k]

OK, I think I have this all worked out. I shot some of the crimson talons and they flew great. I was a little worried because a lot of people say the blades are thin and bend. They were changed in 2004 to take care of that problem. So I still shot my thunderheads. I fletched all my arrows that I was shooting. Most of the fletchings had very little wrong and that took care of the problems I was having with the thunderheads!! I shot again this morning and used one arrow with one fletching that was messed up and it almost missed the target at 40yds the other two just 2" to the right. At 60 yds they are about 6" right. 20 and 30 yds are good. My question know is, to make up that 6" at 60 yds how much will it change my 20 yd to the left? I am not changing my pins until 2-3 weeks before my hunt when I will only shoot broadheads. Any ideas on this.

Thanks Craig

 

[BOHNTR]

Craig:

When you sight in broadheads there are a few things you MUST do to prevent frustration. First off, your arrows need to be in perfect shape. No fletching tears or slightly bent arrows (if aluminum) and nocks must be in the correct alignment. Secondly, your heads need to be free of slight bends (wobbles) and the blades need to be perfectly straight as well. Your "sight in arrow" should spin with the broadhead perfectly. Once you achieve this, you're ready to sight in.

When I sight in new heads, I basically use 3 brand new heads on the hunting arrows I plan to shoot. DON'T worry about "wasting" 3 new heads, you'll save yourself a lot of time in the long run.

I've never had arrows hitting to the right at 20 yards, then way left at longer distance. If I had to guess, that's probably operator error (shooting form) or trying to shoot arrows/heads that are not in good working order (see above). This would include your arrow spine as well.

Get three perfect arrows tipped with three good heads and re-sight. Tell us how that works. Good luck.

BOHNTR )))---------->

 

[AZWALKER]

With the arrows hitting father right the farther you get out, adjust your sights so that you are dead nuts at 60 yds. Then come back and shoot at 20 yds. I'll bet you don't notice a change when you come back to 20 yds. Remember, if you make a 6 inch adjustment at 60 yds, that same adjustment won't be inches at 20 yds, it'll be fractions of an inch. If by chance you come back to 20 after making the adjustment at 60 and you're hitting left at 20, your third axis setting on your sight may be off. You know the axis I'm talking about? The one that makes your sight ring turn slightly clockwise or counter clockwise. To adjust your third axis, take your bow and set it up completely vertical, then check the level on your sight. Make the necesary adjustment to make sight level. Its probably not that though. I would just concentrate on getting your 60 yd pin correct cuz you'll still be well within the kill zone at 20 even if you are a fraction left. Hope that helps bud.

Donnie