LAST EDITED ON Aug-20-07 AT 10:57AM (MST)[p]Huge can of worms type question. There are so many variables involved. Start with the arrow. You have to make sure that it has the correct spine for the length of the arrow, your bow's poundage and the point weight you are using. Check your arrow manufacturer's web site for a spine chart. You have to start there. You could have the most perfectly tuned bow and have the best form in the world, but if your arrows are too stiff or too flimsy, you will be all over the place. Especially with broadheads.
Then assess your form. You don't want to be torquing the bow side to side, you dont want to slam the trigger, you want to use back tension, you don't want to drop your bow arm, your draw length has to be set just right, etc. It goes on and on. Read a book or watch some videos on good shooting form. Then film yourself and watch for ways to improve your form. Once you get it down, practice good form enough that it becomes second nature.
Lastly, it could be your bow. Again, a multitude of possibilities. Your rest could be off left or right or up or down. If the arrow comes off the string and through the rest even just a tiny hair off, it will shoot wildly, again, especially with broadheads. You need to verify your centershot and the height of your nock point. If you do not know how to do this, head to your local pro shop. They should be able to do that for you and then paper tune it. That means they will shoot an arrow through a sheet of paper to make sure it is coming off the bow straight and cutting a nice clean hole in the paper. Also rule out fletching contact. Make sure your arrow's fletchings are not making contact with the rest, cable, riser, sight, or any other part of the bow. Fletching clearance is VERY important. You do not want any contact at all.
Then all you should have to do from there is maybe make some very minor adjustments to get your broadheads and field points grouping together. Download the Easton Arrow Tuning Guide online and it will tell you exactly which minor adjustments to make for this final tuning step.
I'd also reccomend a compact broadhead as they are more forgiving and easier to tune. I like the Wac'ems and the Slick Tricks. They are less prone to wind planing like some of the other more traditional style heads. While Muzzy's and Thundrheads have great terminal performance, if your form or your setup is just a bit off, they will shoot eraticaly.
Start with the right arrow, then get your form down, then get your bow in tune, and you should be in much better shape.
