broadhead flight

[randal16]

Yes, I know, we've been over this...but I'm going to ask anyhow. The problem I have is broadhead flight. Here's my set up, Hoyt Vectix @ 60lbs, Carbon Express Maximas 350's, Thunderhead 100 grains, Spot Hogg SDP, Trophy Ridge drop-zone...I am pounding tacks with field tips...but my broadhead'ed arrows don't all fly the same. I've tried to match the blades with the vanes, (doesn't seem to matter) but out of a dozen..4 or 5 will consistently miss. I have them numbered so it's easy to see...for instance my #4 arrow will duck 5" left @ 20 yards, and so on. I can throw a field tip on it and punch the X. Do I need to do something to "tune" the arrow? Are there broad heads out there that you can screw on a dozen and get great flight with all of them. Driving me nuts! Anybody? Bohntr? Thanks

 

[swbuckmaster]

"Do I need to do something to "tune" the arrow?"

Yes to me it sounds like the dynamic spine of the arrow is off on those arrows! For those of you that don't know what dynamic spine is ill try and explain. The Dynamic spine is the way an arrow flexes every time it is shot. They will typically flex the same way every time unless it is a bad arrow. All you have to do is match up the dynamic spine and those arrow will fly just fine. There are a couple of ways to do this. But all require the arrow to be shot. One is paper tuning a bare shaft and twist the nock until you get a bullet hole. Than without messing with you bow do this to every arrow. You will notice some wont bullet hole. Now just twist your nock, you should see the tear moving around in a circle until it gets a bullet hole. If it won't make a bullet hole mark it and use it on close targets.

If you are a good shot and can tell that your arrows are out of wack like you say than just twist your nock a ? turn and shoot is a couple of times to establish a group. Keep this process up until it is shooting where it should be.

I like the paper tuning way. That way I can fletch them all the same.

If you're dynamic spine is off on your arrows than it can plane differently than your other arrows. It isn't as noticeable with your field tips as it is with broadheads.

This is one of the big reasons why most people having problems with fixed blades switch to mechanicals. That and they don't now how to tune their bow!

Good Luck hope this helps!

 

[randal16]

Thanks! I really appreciate the help. To paper tune..do I just put the paper on the target...or does the paper need to be on a frame in between me and the target? Thanks again!

 

[randal16]

Hey...I found a paper tuning guide after doing a search. I'm an idiot...thanks again for the help. Here is the link if anyone needs it www.eastonarchery.com/downloads.asp

 

[FAB]

Make sure you spin test all of your arrows with your broadheads. It's very common for a few arrows to not spin true out of a dozen (very common with carbons) with broadheads. If you can detect the slightest wobble they will not fly with your arrows that spin true. You can try matching broadheads to arrows, some will spin true with one head and wobble with an identical new head, others will never spin true due to the insert not being perfectly straight with the arrow. If your flyers spin true then it probly is a spine problem. On the Carbon Tech website they also explain how spine consistency changes over time, especially as the arrow ages (or is shot many times). For the price companies charge for carbons you'd think they could sell you a dozen that are near perfect but then you wouldnt need to buy as many. Kinda like light bulbs I guess!

 

[BigPig]

First off, check Carbon Express' spine chart. Make sure you have the right arrows for your arrow length, point weight, and pound of pull on the bow.

If that is corrent and you are still getting some flyers, you will need to spin test to make sure that all your arrows with broadheads are spinning true. Single out the flyers and try twisting the nock a liitle at a time, if that wont work, try heating a field tip gradually while it is screwed into the insert. Loosen the insert and try twisting it a little at a time to get things spinning true. You might try taking the nocks off and squaring them with G5's ASD. Square the face of the insert too. That should help.

Who built your arrows? I'm overly anal about this stuff but I now build my own so that I know it is done right. I use G5's Arrow Squaring Device (ASD) and true up both ends of my arrows before installing the nock and the insert. Sometimes I'll even square up the face of the insert too. It helps.

Lastly, sometimes there are just flyers. Maybe defects in manufacturing. It could be the broadhead, it could be the arrow. Switch out the broadhead on one of the bad arrows and put it on a good aroow. If it makes the good arrow fly bad, it's the broadhead fault and it goes in the trash. If it flys fine on the good arrow, it's the arrow's fault and it should go in the trash.

If all else fails, try changing broadheads. Thunderheads aren't known for exceptionaly cosistent arrow flight. In my experience, everything must be right on with your turning and form to get them to shoot well. A smaller, more compact head like a Wac'em or Slick Trick will be more forgiving.

 

[swbuckmaster]

I am sure you have the correct spine because you said you didn't have a problem shooting field tips.

Checking to see if your broad head is square is another thing that could be off like they mentioned because if it is off your broadhead could plane. I haven't had any problems with this because I also use an ASD and purchase arrows with tight arrow straightness tolerances?.

The single most important thing in good arrow performance is spine related. However, I can get an under spined arrow to fly ok and a stiff arrow to fly better than ok. However if you get a perfectly spined dozen arrows and a dozen arrows which have the dynamic spine matched up perfectly. They will literally shoot a nickel sized group out to forty yards through a hooter shooter.

I shoot a lot of competition archery shoots and my arrows can take a beating from other archers or myself. If I have an arrow that doesn't hit where I am aiming I set it aside and check it out when I have time to shoot it through paper. 9 out of 10 times it has been hit and the dynamic spine has changed.
Carbons or aluminum arrows all have a dynamic spine that needs to be checked. You can't check the arrow on a spine tester or float your arrow and see which side sinks the most. It must be shot to test for "DYNAMIC SPINE"! This will absolutely tell you which way it if flexing when coming out of your bow.

If you have good form, your bow is tuned properly you can shoot well. But if you tune your arrows it can take you to the next level.

If any of you have access to a hooter shooter try this out.
You can get a poorly tuned bow to shoot 1 arrow into the same spot every time. Why? Because it is being shot by a machine, which can duplicates the same form every time. If you use the same arrow it will fly like crap fish tailing the same way every time, But If you try to shoot a different arrow into the previous hole you just shot it may or may not hit the hole, if it doesn't just twist the nock until it will hit the same hole. Now you have two crappy flying arrows that will hit the same spot every time. Just Plain Weird!

Hope every one has the best of luck with the up coming hunts 17 days and counting.

 

[randal16]

Thanks everyone. I'm starting to think it's a broadhead issue. The arrows I'm shooting are Carbon Express Maximas..the draw weight, length, all match up on the charts..shouldn't be an issue of wrong arrow. I am just pounding tacks with these arrows with field tips. It's when I screw on the Thunderheads that I get such inconsistent flight...actually not inconsistent..but some arrows missing the same way consistently. Maybe I'll take the advice and try some Wac'ems. I know some guys that love the Thunderheads...but they "tune" each arrow, adding washers, aligning the vanes and blades. One of my worst flyers is aligned close to perfect, and I can take that broadhead off..put a field tip on it..and drill the 10. It's gotta be the broadhead..or lack of tuning the arrow...right? I appreciate the help..

 

[dleonard3]

One of the major problems most archers don't seem to know about is the fact that the arrow needs to spin to stabilize broadheads. All broadheads will plane off target due to tune, wind, bow movement, mis-alignment, etc, etc. You still need to be sure that your spine is correct, your bow is tuned to shoot bullet holes, and you're not gripping (torquing) your bow. But if you put helic into your vanes, the arrow will plane like a cork screw. The tighter the helic, the tighter the corkscrew - and therefore the tighter the group. Try using short, low profile target type vanes, and glue them on with alot of helic (as long as you can still clear your rest). You'll be amazed how much better your broadheads fly.

 

[randal16]

Okay everyone..thanks for all your help...I got it fixed. I shortened the arrow by an inch, glued in new inserts with Montecs and aligned the broadhead with the vanes...Oh what a difference! The Thunderheads just didn't work for me...I took them into a shop, the guys there spun the arrow with the Thunderhead...they wobbled bad! Threw on a couple Montecs and the spun straight. Even putting Montecs on the longer arrows, and matching the vanes and heads as close as I could, they flew 10x better than the Thunderheads. Maybe I just got a bad batch, I don't know..they just didn't work out of my setup. I appreciate all your help and advice..I learned a lot. Thanks

 

[archeryelk]

Get a good scale and check the weight of each broadhead. I have seen off by a TON.

Archer

 

[jodog]

I tune my bow, then shoot paper, check all my arrows and broadheads then I shoot broadheads all year. If you get your equiptment all tuned correctly and still have problems it's time to check your form.