Brass life?

Lhedrick1

Active Member
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850
How many times can you reload Weatherby brass? I'm on a batch of 3rd and 4th time for the .300 Weatherby. Once run through the tumbler it looks like new brass, no cracks or stress signs that I can tell. Primers may go in a little easier than they used to but don't appear to be loose.

So what say you? Reload till they start to show wear? Any effect on accuracy for old brass vs. new brass?
 
You need to check for a ring just above the web on the brass. A common failure with magnum caliber brass is case head separation that leaves the forward part of the brass in the rifle chamber after firing.
I use a dental pick that has a 90 degree point to put into the case all the way to the base. with the point of the pick dragging on the inner case wall I pull the pick out. what I am looking for is for the pick point to catch on the ring I mentioned. If it catches, you have brass flow that has weaken the brass at the base and will have complete separation on the next firing or two. Toss that brass.
If you resize the brass where the shoulder is supported and not sitting it back, will increase the life of the brass. If you have gotten 4 firings on your brass, it sounds like you are doing a good job of sizing the brass and not setting the shoulder back. Improper sizing of the brass will usually show up in two-three loadings with that case head separation ring.

RELH
 
REDDOG Gets 2 Shots Per Casing!

One Factory Shot!

And One More after Tamping the Powder!:D










I know so many people in so many places
They make allot of money but they got sad faces

It Ain't Easy being Me!:D:D:D
 
Thanks RELH. I have a 90 degree gunsmith pick of sorts, I think it will fit in the brass. I'll try that on this batch of brass and see what they feel like.

Is there typically a gain/loss in accuracy with old/new brass?
 
If you aren't annealing cases you won't get near the brass life because necks will start to split. Anneal every 2-3 firings.
 
A Google search of "annealing brass" brought up that it prolongs the brass life. Other than that, I dont have the slightest clue what it entails.
 
Think of it as tempering the brass, so it is hard enough to not " flow" when shot. If it flows its likely to thin and weaken. If you have ever trimmed cases you can see the effects of brass moving or flowing from one area to another. Exact brass in SanPete county can anneal brass for you. I have some 6.5 X 284 lapua brass thats on its 4th load. And have some Creedmoor on he 6th all look look good. I toss them when the primer pockets are worn out.
 
So its like hardening your brass? Making it more durable and lengthening it's life span. I guess the bigger question for me is if the brass is intact and structurally sound, is there a point where the brass will start to affect accuracy even though its still shootable?
 
I have been reloading for the last three years for a 7 mm Remington Magnum using Nosler brass. I am up to five times reloading on some of my brass and it is still just as accurate as the first and second round firings
 
If your brass is in good shape,same maker,and was the same lot. And your case prep. Is good , it won't effect accuracy. If Your other load components, primers, powder,bullets are all good then it's all up to you and you rifle.
 
LAST EDITED ON May-31-19 AT 09:31PM (MST)[p]LAST EDITED ON May-31-19 AT 09:29?PM (MST)

Annealing the brass WILL NOT HARDEN THE BRASS. It does just the opposite so the brass will not be brittle which leads to splits.
There is videos on YouTube that will show you how to anneal the case mouth of your rifle brass.
I anneal brass when I attach brass guards to knives. I anneal the brass pins by heating them red hot and dunk in water. It makes the pins softer so I can peen the pins in the holes of the brass guard and you can not see the pins as they will flow in that soft state to fill the drilled holes in the brass guard.

Most long range target shooters will anneal their brass case mouths which will allow for a constant pull rate on the bullet that will aid accuracy. Every time you resize the case mouth, you WORK HARDEN the neck that will lead to splits and cause accuracy problems. Annealing the brass reverses that process. You will probably see loose primer pockets before split necks if you anneal the case neck.

RELH
 
Got it. Just watched a YouTube video. Basically just heating up the neck and shoulder for 5 seconds or so and then cooling in water. I think I'll try it on my current 20 rounds of Weatherby brass and see how much life I get out of them. Thanks everyone!
 
Graci Jagerdad. Though if you don't "mine", would you please share with me you infatuation with a Honda Trail 90???
 
No need to anneal and then dip in water. Just let it cool naturally. Plus it will be a better job.

Spoken by a 20 year saw filer who welded many thousands of saws.
 
Dear Lhedrick1.

I NEED a Honda Trail 90 to get around. If the truth be told, it shall be in two parts.

#1 I am a Disabled Sheriff and can not walk. I can sit and operate Vehicles very well. I need a Honda Trail 90 so I can Putt-Putt around in Deer Hunting Zones. I accept my condition and know riding any bike will not get one close to Deer, But it is better than a zero effort. If I were to be riding a Honda Trail 90 or 110, I would view endless Hills I desire to walk up or down just to see what is there but, I can not do such. Tears held back I seek to do nothing more than to be out Hunting, even if my chances are slim to none.

#2 I am a highly accomplished Motorcycle rider. I should have died many times on a Bike. If I have a Bike with Power, I will surely use such Power. A Honda Trail 90/110 totally stops me from the "NEED FOR SPEED" inside of my mind. I do understand my own limitations ( Due to a Body that does not work ) but my mind feels as if I can do anything on a Bike, Therefore, to control my own worst enemy (Me ) I need a Honda Trail 90 or 110.

Thank you for asking. Not one other person has.

Jagerdad
 
Sorry Jagerdad, I did not mean any disrespect or offense. I read a lot of your posts and have wondered what the story was. Hope you find what youre looking for so you can get back in the saddle.
 
>
>Annealing the brass WILL NOT HARDEN
>THE BRASS. It does just
>the opposite so the brass
>will not be brittle which
>leads to splits.
> There is videos on
>YouTube that will show you
>how to anneal the case
>mouth of your rifle brass.
>
> I anneal brass
>when I attach brass guards
>to knives. I anneal the
>brass pins by heating them
>red hot and dunk in
>water. It makes the pins
>softer so I can peen
>the pins in the holes
>of the brass guard and
>you can not see the
>pins as they will flow
>in that soft state to
>fill the drilled holes in
>the brass guard.
>
>Most long range target shooters will
>anneal their brass case mouths
>which will allow for a
>constant pull rate on the
>bullet that will aid accuracy.
>Every time you resize the
>case mouth, you WORK HARDEN
>the neck that will lead
>to splits and cause accuracy
>problems. Annealing the brass reverses
>that process. You will probably
>see loose primer pockets before
>split necks if you anneal
>the case neck.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>RELH


This^^^^^^^

Zeke

#livelikezac
 

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