M
MikeLonsford
Guest
Hello,
I've always been a rifle hunter until now. I got interested in bugling elk, read one too many of Dwight Schuh's books, saw one too many Primos elk hunting video and got reeled into a bow just a few days ago. I have been practicing with a 20 year old compound bow that a guy at work loaned me to see if I was really interested. After lots of research, I got a new Mathews and am very happy with it thus far.
I am requesting a little help. My home state of Washington requires arrow weight of 6 grains per pound of draw. I am currently set up about 50 grains too light to do legal hunting. 70 pound draw with 370 grains of arrow. My options are lighten the draw to 65 lbs and increase tip weight from 100 to 125 this will get me legal(this is the direction I'm heading). Or I could go to the next heavier shaft and get it with the 125 tip and shoot at the full 70 lbs. I suspect either way I'll be a similar speed as that is probably why they have the rule, and if that's the case I'm guessing the lighter draw is easier to keep on target. I'm a little concerned about the arrow set up, as I don't know which arrows are good for what weight tips and at what speeds they are more stable. Or maybe all are reasonably good once the bow is tuned to them. While I researched the heck out of the bows, I didn't do so with arrows.
Mathews Switchback 65 lb draw with 390 grain arrow or 70 lb draw with 420 grain arrow? Does anyone know which would go faster (at a 28" draw length)? Also if it helps diagnose anything with the arrows I'm shooting a 28.5" GoldTip Hunter Expedition 5575 and was looking at maybe going to the 7595's.
Also while I do not know the rules of other states, I'm hoping they don't restrict the speed quite as much as Washington. I'm hoping to hunt other states with a bow eventually and would like to be able to max the bows performance 70 lb draw with lighter weight arrow. While I know I'd have to resight, I don't know if I'd need to "retune". If retuning is required, is this easier done by maintaining the same exact arrow or only specific parts of it(length, tip weight, shaft weight)?
Any help is much appreciated.
-Mike
I've always been a rifle hunter until now. I got interested in bugling elk, read one too many of Dwight Schuh's books, saw one too many Primos elk hunting video and got reeled into a bow just a few days ago. I have been practicing with a 20 year old compound bow that a guy at work loaned me to see if I was really interested. After lots of research, I got a new Mathews and am very happy with it thus far.
I am requesting a little help. My home state of Washington requires arrow weight of 6 grains per pound of draw. I am currently set up about 50 grains too light to do legal hunting. 70 pound draw with 370 grains of arrow. My options are lighten the draw to 65 lbs and increase tip weight from 100 to 125 this will get me legal(this is the direction I'm heading). Or I could go to the next heavier shaft and get it with the 125 tip and shoot at the full 70 lbs. I suspect either way I'll be a similar speed as that is probably why they have the rule, and if that's the case I'm guessing the lighter draw is easier to keep on target. I'm a little concerned about the arrow set up, as I don't know which arrows are good for what weight tips and at what speeds they are more stable. Or maybe all are reasonably good once the bow is tuned to them. While I researched the heck out of the bows, I didn't do so with arrows.
Mathews Switchback 65 lb draw with 390 grain arrow or 70 lb draw with 420 grain arrow? Does anyone know which would go faster (at a 28" draw length)? Also if it helps diagnose anything with the arrows I'm shooting a 28.5" GoldTip Hunter Expedition 5575 and was looking at maybe going to the 7595's.
Also while I do not know the rules of other states, I'm hoping they don't restrict the speed quite as much as Washington. I'm hoping to hunt other states with a bow eventually and would like to be able to max the bows performance 70 lb draw with lighter weight arrow. While I know I'd have to resight, I don't know if I'd need to "retune". If retuning is required, is this easier done by maintaining the same exact arrow or only specific parts of it(length, tip weight, shaft weight)?
Any help is much appreciated.
-Mike