100yd set up

canhunter · Dec 6, 2007

I am shooting a LX with a TR drop away and a TR 5pin. I would like to actually set this sight up if possible for the first pin to be 60yds. I currently have the first at 40 and the 80 will actually be visible on the target. If I lower the sight any more I will not get clearance and the vanes will hit the fiber optics and adjustment levers. Any suggestions or ideas would be great. The bow shoots amazingly well with bullet holes in paper, so moving the nock point or rest is not an option. The bow is set at 64 I can pull 70 fine, but I prefer 64 because it is easy and plenty fast. I would prefer to use the same sight so I could simply slide it back up to set the pins for my hunting distances. Any help would be appreciated.

grizzlyplumber · Dec 7, 2007

You are gonna have to change something to get an accurate pin to 100 yards. I shot an LX before and if I remember correctly it shot at about 255 fps, the drop on an arrow from 80 to 100 yards at that speed is extreme. It is a great shooting bow, one suggestion would be to move the sight closer to the bow, that would change the angle of the shot, maybe get more clearance. Good luck with it.

swbuckmaster · Dec 7, 2007

good god, 100 yards? Canhunter you know your stuff when it comes to rifles you should just stick to them.

archery is an up close and personal game. Maybe you need to get better at sneeking.

I dont want to see any of your gut shot deer running around after the season.

bowhuntwa · Dec 7, 2007

I recommend setting your pins at 20-60 yds and to practice stalking animals within that range. If you want to shoot farther get a muzzleloader or a rifle. Dont be one of those fools who shoot farther than their ability. I 3-D shoot with guys who are sponsored by big archery companies and they still wouldnt shoot at an animal at that range. I practice religiously out to 60 yds, but ive never had to shoot an animal over 32 yds and hopefully I can keep it that way.

AZWALKER · Dec 7, 2007

LAST EDITED ON Dec-07-07 AT 02:16PM (MST)[p]I don't recall anything in his post about shooting game at those distances. As a matter of fact he mentioned being able to move them back for hunting. Read the whole post before you start throwing rocks.

Donnie

canhunter · Dec 7, 2007

LAST EDITED ON Dec-07-07 AT 03:31PM (MST)[p]Thanks for the props on my rifle knowlege as I have put a lot of effort into learning every detail including long range shooting. I have only been using a bow for five years, but I am going to learn about it like my centerfire's. I don't shoot deer past 70 with my bow. I do have three mule deer book bucks out of the last five years of bowhunting all general season. I have never lost or wounded a deer with my bow and the same arrow has killed all three. First year did not shoot a 180 class due to equipment not able to make a 50yd shot. This year I just did not see a buck I wanted to actually sneak on. Did see legal bucks every day I was out, but none that met my size standards. I think I sneak pretty well considering my percentage of years to kill ratio on mature book class bucks. We also don't have but a few deer a year that come in at 190 or above in the entire state. So not like we have a lot of huge deer running around to just pick one from. I sent you a picture of the smallest one I have shot with a bow at 45yds. Please don't post it as just for you. Ethics and morals are not my issue. I am just trying to get my current set up for a 100yd pin. Hunting has nothing to do with my request other then if I can accurately shoot at a longer range it will only enhance my close in accuracy and ability.

canhunter · Dec 7, 2007

I sent you
>a picture of the smallest
>one I have shot with
>a bow at 45yds.

Sorry, but my email would not work by clicking your email icon. If you post where you would like me to send it then I can send it for review. Notice the entry at the last rib, exit is out the off shoulder. I would not call that a gut shot but it was close.

AZWALKER · Dec 7, 2007

LAST EDITED ON Dec-07-07 AT 06:24PM (MST) by BOHNTR (moderator)[p]Pretty amazing how this site gets sometimes. Guys are so quick to jump someone about ethics and morals they don't even bother reading your whole post. UNBELIEVABLE!!!

If you have a chance, I would check out some of the new sights that are out now. I've seen a couple different 7 pin systems and I thought I saw a 9 once. What you might think about doing is buying a different sight for your long range target stuff and then just keep your current set up for hunting. You wouldn't have to do anything but unscrew 2 bolts to completely change your set-up. Other than that I can't think of anyway of bringing your sights down that low without changing your rest and nockpoint. Actually, going with a different sight system wouldn't work either, the sight will still have to sit at the same point. The idea about bringing your sight closer to the riser was a great idea. That may change how your bow shoots though. I have my sights out as far as they'll go and they add to what the stabilizer does. Other than that you're gonna have to change your nockpoint and lower you rest. I wouldn't be too scared to do it though. If you do it right you could have your bow shooting exactly the same in about an hour.

Donnie

timberline_shedfreak24 · Dec 7, 2007

If I wanted to I have room on my moveable sight for about 125-130 yards starting at twenty. But I shoot the X-Force so the speed allows me to do it.

Timberline

AZWALKER · Dec 7, 2007

Yeah, with that bow I'm surprised your 20,30,and 40 aren't the same pin! I heard thats one heck of a bow! Whats the brace height on that rocket launcher??? Does is still shoot nice with all that speed???

Donnie

canhunter · Dec 7, 2007

Az..thanks for the advice. I have contemplated simply getting a new sight, but I just have a hard time taking things on and off a gun or bow. I am going to try finding different parts to use for a 100yd shot already on the bow. IE, Cam ends, Arrow Tip, Tip Base, ect. and see if that willwork Worse case I will probably just buy another LX and set it up the same except sights for the long range target stuff. Yes that X smokes, but it just had a harsher draw. But you don't go fast without a hard start!!!!

AZWALKER · Dec 8, 2007

Yeah, buying a new bow for that long range stuff, while pricey, would be the best thing to do. What kind of shooting are you doing at those ranges??? Just for fun or is it for league type stuff?? Kind of off topic but I've been reaching out there a bit more lately. I've gotten into doing all my own tuning and I've been shooting alot while trying to get my bow tuned right. Well all that practice has done miracles for my form. I've done things at 60 I've never done before. 6" groups in the black at 55 yards without a 55 yard pin. 4" groups @ 60 with a 60 pin. Those are 6 arrow groups too. I'm shooting a cheap little bow. Its a Parker Hunter Mag my wife got me 4 years ago. I love shooting next to guys with $1200 set-ups. They walk up, see my bow and smirk... then I get up and take em to school. They always end up moving to the other end of the range. I love it. Anyway, I'm done tooting my own horn now. Good luck with your set-up.

Donnie

WapitiBob · Dec 8, 2007

raise your peep sight.

AZWALKER · Dec 8, 2007

Raising the peep sight would be a quick fix but would also change the anchor point. No good, especially since correct form is so critical at long range. The only way to correctly adjust that particular bow to shoot at those ranges is to move the nock point down, lower the rest, move the peep down and leave the sight where it is.

Donnie

grizzlyplumber · Dec 8, 2007

What arrows are you shooting and at what weight? A lighter arrow will travel faster, my brother shoots the speed pro max at 6.2 grains per inch, incredibly light and stiff, very fast but the arrows are not very durable. Have you tried moving the sight closer to the bow?

canhunter · Dec 8, 2007

LAST EDITED ON Dec-08-07 AT 09:43PM (MST)[p]ok...I only want to start shooting 100yd stuff just because I want to, so that any shot at my hunting ranges is a slam dunk. Unlike our politicians and media I don't have a hidden agenda. I am not going to change anything that would affect my anchor point or natural draw. I love the LX, and the only thing I can think of is a diff. sight. No one around here shoots much past 60 so I am the Bast%^& Chi&*. Same thing with my centerfire shooting. They always ask why are you shooting at those crazy distances. Then they always say jeez that fricking (my name) can hit anything. DUH....!!!! how many times do I have to tell you why. I priced used LX's and I can get a new set up for less then 500 so that looks like a real possibility. Again I don't want to change things if I don't have to. I can not get any more clearance because my helical fletching hits the fiber optics or adjustment levers. I won't be shooting broadheads, but there is still enough turn in a 28" arrow with a 29" draw it will hit regardles of where the C feather is. I can get the C feather to clear just fine down, but then the next one rotates into contact before it clears the sight. I know this is a SOB but just hoping for some configurations that are working for others. My sight easily has over a inch of adjustment if it did not have the adjustment levers and fiber optic hanging down. I have asked TR by email, but they have not responded as of yet. AZ I have to give you a thanks for nutting up and sticking with this to help as some others have also. Will be in AZ March...do you ride dirt bikes?....will be bringing mine down to Salome for a week or so. Not as out there with the bikes but I don't mind "wicking" it pretty much all the time on my WR450.

canhunter · Dec 8, 2007

Oops I am shooting 406 grain arrows, and again I don't want to shoot something I am not going to hunt with. Kinda like shooting target bullets that group .25 then switching to your hunting bullets that won't hold 2" on their best day.

grizzlyplumber · Dec 9, 2007

Okay a 400 gr arrow with a hard helical fletching that will naturally slow the arrow more and more as it gets farther away out of a bow that is probably shooting under 250 fps, that is a tall order to shoot out to 100 yards but certainly not impossible, the problem will be the trajectory needed to get it out there is such that the sight pin would need to be on the arrow rest itself. The older bows, and I mean back in the 70s, used to shoot that far by using some kind of sight prism which would let you aim at higher trajectories but still see the target through your sight. I dont know if anything like that is still available but I would suggest looking on archerytalk.com as some of those guys have been shooting long enough to remember them and may still have one around. Be prepared for the same grief that you got here though, some people just love to tell others what they can and cant do, thats why liberalism still survives.

AZWALKER · Dec 9, 2007

Okay, I assume you're using the Trophey Ridge Matrix??

This is what I would do. Take 2 fiber optic pins. Cut them to the right length and heat them up and bend the tips so that they face you at full draw. Now you'll have to guess-timate the lengths based on the distance between your other pins. Now glue those pins somewhere on the inside of your sight frame, one on either side of the level. Line them up so that they line up with your other pins vertically. You could actually tape them there until you get them set to the proper length. You could actually find a place to wrap them so they absorb plenty of light then just bring them around to the right spot in your sight picture. Once you have them set to the right spot so your hitting 90 and 100 yds, take a marker and black out the side of the fiber optic that faces you so its not a distraction. You could even find a toothpic or a slim wire to glue to the back of the fiber optic for stability. Reason being that with that Matrix there looks like there is room to add aiming points below the bottom pin.

Maybe thats a stretch and more work than its worth but it might be an option. You wouldn't have to move anything else on your bow but you'd be adding more aiming points.

Donnie

redrabbit · Dec 9, 2007

Without wanting to change the basics of your set-up, the best option might be to move the sight closer to the riser, as has been suggested. You might be able to reverse it and have it inside the riser, but accuracy will suffer with a short sight radius.

AZWALKER · Dec 9, 2007

Reversing it is a great idea! Instead of centering your whole sight ring in your peep adjust your shooting so that your pin itself is centered in your peep. Its a more natural way of aiming anyway. Our eyes automatically center everything.

Donnie

Bullcanyon · Dec 9, 2007

I know you said you don't want to change sights, but dude you gotta do it. That tr sight is one of the hardest sights to be accurate with that I've ever used. I hated it. For long range. Hard to beat either a single pin movable sight or a spot hogg with the wire. I'd get .019 pins as well. That trophy ridge sight is going to be hard to hold that bottom pin dead on something as far away as 100yds with all that crap in the way.

It will take you less time to put a new sight on and get it dialed in than you think. Trust me. It WILL be worth the effort.

canhunter · Dec 11, 2007

Thanks for the input all. My bow is actually shooting a chronographed at 10' 274fps, and it has more then enough FPS to shoot 100yds. Helical fletching does not slow the arrow that much and the accuracy improvement is a no brainer. My 80yd pin currently is bottomed out, and the bases of the pins in front block the target somewhat. That is what I am trying to avoid. I have .19 pins and I love the in line pins. I watched the Eastmans the other day and Guy had a 7 pin Spot hog. I slowed it down and he had it adjusted really low, so I don't care what he may claim his last pin is not 70yds. So now to find a shop with the Spot Hog and try it on a bow and see how I like it. Az...good idea and thanks but again the sight actually would block the target and it would be a guessing type shot. If I like the spot hog then I will probably just swap sights, and it looks like it has the adjustment and pins count to work. I went with the inline because when I tried sights it gave me the most view of the target. Now with a little more experience maybe I won't be so bothered by the horizontal pins.

AZWALKER · Dec 11, 2007

You'll get used to the pins. It might take a while but you'll get used to them. Looking at a pic of the TR sight I can see what you're talking about. One you might try is the Copper John Dead Nuts Pro. I've had mine for 3 years and it has stood up well. Very thin pin guard yet its tough as nails. Check that one out when you go lookin.

Donnie

swbuckmaster · Dec 19, 2007

Maybe I did jump the gun on your post. I will give you the benefit of the doubt on this one. I do listen when you talk guns because I am ignorant in this department.

I also shoot an LX it is a great bow. If it were me and I wanted to shoot out to 100 yards I wouldn't go to a spot hogg. I would stick with a one pin set up with a small outer ring, because you don't have to split your pins for odd yards. The smaller outer ring would allow you to adjust the sight farther down without fletching contact. I would also switch to a lower profile fletching; this would also give you more clearance. I'd get rid of the hard helical. You are not shooting broadheads so you don't need the helical.

If you go to any of the outdoor competitions where you are required to shoot at those distances you will notice they use a skinny heavy arrow with small fletching, and some of them are fletched straight. ?I know it goes against what you have been taught? But hear me out If your arrow is tuned properly and the dynamic spine is adjusted so each arrow is flexing the same way on every arrow every time you don't need the arrow spinning and slowing it down to stabilize it. In fact when the arrow slows down your groups open up more cause of wind. You want to maximize your wind resistance on the long shots and perfect your form.

There are a lot of people that say I practice the long shots so a short shot is easy. I've seen people that can't hit a target at 30 yards let alone at 100 yards for them I would not recommend shooting at those distances because it won't make them any better of a shot.
I say practice with what you are going to hunt with at yardages you are going to hunt with than when you are put in the situation you will know your limitations.

If a person wants to improve his shooting he should start with spots at 20 yards this will work on your release. Then in the summer shoot a good field league it will improve you shooting more than any other style for hunting. You will have to shoot long shots, short shots, shots on slopes, hills and even in the wind. You will notice trends in you groups that can be corrected by anything from form to bow tuning. You will get more for you buck than any 3d league around.

Good luck

Broadside_Shot · Dec 20, 2007

My opinion would be to setup the bow perfect for the way you plan on hunting, this way you don't have to keep redoing things throughout the summer. If you don't hunt with a hundred yard pin and want to shoot those distances for practice then learn how to stack your pins. You will still get the practive you are looking for, your closer shots will seem easier, and you won't have to worry about forgeting what pin is what yardage. You hear all of the time how people used thier 40 yard pin instead of thier 50 and so on. I like to shoot 100 yards in practice but this way I become more familiar with my bow and everything stays the same and in the moment of truth I don't have to think as hard. Just my opinion I hope you can get it setup the way you want.