Refinishing rifle stock question.

2lumpy

Long Time Member
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ÏI picked up an old Remington 550-P .22 rifle at a pawn shop back in February. I spent April, May and June searching out and purchasing numerous missing parts for it. I actually had to buy the pep sight from 4 different people. All together, I had to buy from 7 different individuals, to get all the missing bits and pieces. So with the exception of one more screw for the front sight, I have all the parts. Now it's time to clean up the stock. I’m not worried about ruining the original finish because I will never sell it. It will go to a grand child someday, so I just want to clean it up……. It’s a gooey mess, as you can see.

I used a good citric paint remover to removed the sticky varnish. Washed it down with paint remove cleaner and followed that with a light wash of acetone. Sanded most of the dings and scratches out with 180 grit sandpaper. It cleaned up fairly well, with a few deep dings that I will sweat out with a steam iron and a wet wash cloth. It will end up having the grain raised with a damp cloth, dried and lightly sanded with a 1500 sandpaper.

Here’s my question, In did the original sanding with 180 grit, then when over with 220 grit. Came clean and looked pretty good. I set it on my table saw bed, in my uninsulated shop, it’s get well over a 100 degrees in there during the day. I got busy and it set there for an about a week…… I got back to today. As you can see, old oil that has soaked into the walnut over the last 75-80 years, has leached to the surface of the walnut around where the previous owner most likely used oil to lubricate the action parts of the rifle.

I want to pull as much of that old oil back out of the stock before I put a new finish on it. I’m expecting it will take numerous treatments to draw all of it out.

I’ve watch numerous YouTube videos on various different methods and chemicals to apply to accomplish the task but I’m a simple guy, certainly not a chemist nor a proficient gun refinisher. I’m pretty much simplistic and I’m hoping someone here on the Campfire has a reasonably simple solution you would be willing to share.

Thank you for any suggestions.

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A pretty interesting project you've tackled 2Lumpy. It seems to me you have a couple of options going forward. It looks like the original finish had a semi gloss or gloss finish. Is that what you're aiming for? You could put a shade of walnut stain on the bare wood to help blend the bleeding oil from standing out. Then a coat of sealer, then a couple coats of gloss or semi gloss finish.
Or you could put a hand rubbed oil finish (like linseed oil) on the bare wood. (the more coats you put on the "deeper" it looks.) That might blend in well with the oil stains you mentioned.

If you want the glossy look, you need to either spray lacquer or use a brushing lacquer like Deft and lightly sand between coats, (like 320 grit.)

I'm not up on all the latest products out there so you might run across something better. It's hard to keep up with all that since I got out of the cabinet making.

I hope it's a good shooter and worth all the effort you're putting into it. Good grandpa!
 
I did a 550 I have with just linseed oil.......heated and rubbed it in several times with a clothe

I prefer the matt finish....
 
Thanks eel. I am going to use either linseed oil or tru oil, for a finish.

I think I’ll try mixing calcium carbonate (whiting compound) with acetone, coat the walnut with it and see if that will pull the oil out, after a few applications. I hope.

In the long run…….. I’ll always be a rank
amature, with regards to these kinds of projects, so if I screw it up, it’s not going to be a big deal. I have seen many of these old Remington 550 stocks for sale on eBay and else where. They are a heck of a lot cheaper than I had to spend piecing together that funky little peep sight.

I do appreciate your suggestions, for sure. I’ll send you a picture…….. if I ever get it put back together.
 
Nice Jeff. Actually, quite similar grain pattern on my stock as well. I circled that little place in red. Mine has a spot like that too but it looked like a little piece of wood of right there.

I actually really like this little old timer, it comes up to my shoulder really nice and holds steady. Shoots very accurately as well. I’m really glad I found it and hope I can bring it back to life soon.

Thanks for sharing
 
And “matte”. We need some acuity testin round these parts. :ROFLMAO:

Lump, you have already exceeded the factory finish quality. Pat yourself on the back and relax. :)
HeeHaw blue……. Just having fun. But…… may as well do it as well as I can. lol.
 
So….. a little update tonight.

Still trying to get the old soaked in oil out of the stock. It’s a good this is a labor of love…….. cuz I’d be loosing my butt if it was being done for anything but love for the task.

I coated it with calcium carbonate, let it set on the dashboard of my old pickup for two weeks in in the middle of August. Bushed it clean, very little effect on the amount of oil coming to the surface.

Heated my kitchen oven to 160 degrees, put the stock in it and left it from 2 to 8 hours, wiped the oil off with acetone, repeated the process for 2 to 12 hours, followed by cleaning of the oil every day. Very very slight process after 14 days.

Built an acetone tub, filled it with two gallons of acetone. Left submerged in acetone for 36 hours. The acetone dissolved the tub and left a nasty mess on the stock that took me 2 hours to sand back off.

Back to the oven. After three more days, I can now see that a large amount of the oil soaked area has stopped bleed oil completely. Progress…….finally. Whew!

I don’t know if it was the acetone bath that caused it to turn the corner or if it was about to succumb to the heated oven before I put it in the acetone tub. I’ll never know and frankly I don’t rightly give a damn.

I’m going to run it through the oven treatment for 3 more days and call it good.

This is what it looks like right now.

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I’ll post another picture after I give up on the oil extraction, in a few days.
 
Thanks eel. Fun to do, between more important stuff. Learned a few things I will probably never use again but what the heck, I’m enjoying it…… mostly😂.
 
2Lumpy, I would use the tru-oil instead of the linseed oil. Linseed oil takes a long time to dry between coats. Tru-oil has a drying agent in the oil and will usually dry within 24 hours.

Take your dents out with the iron and wet cloth and finish sand to a 400 grit. dampen the stock with a wet cloth and allow to dry. That will raise the fine "hairs" of the wood. Repeat the sanding with 400 grit to get a smooth surface.

Put first 1 or 2 coats of tru-oil heavy on the stock and allow to dry after they soak into the wood. Wet sand with 400 grit to remove any high spots. Next 3-5 coats use finger tips to spread the oil in a very light coat. rub until you feel a drag on your fingertips. put another drop or two of oil on fingertip and keep going until you have covered the entire stock.

You will end up with a very high gloss finish. If you want a satin finish, use 4 ough steel wool with very light pressure to knock the high shine. Apply a coat of wax and you should be done.
When you are done, we want to see photos of the finished rifle. Your grandson will love getting it as a family heirloom to pass down in the family.

RELH
 

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