Rifle Options for Wyoming

Bkule

Bkule

Member
Messages
39
I have drawn a tag for muley's in Wyoming Unit 78-1. I have never seen the unit. I have a .243 that I shoot well, is light and handy, with a Leupold 2.5-8 on it. I have a new Sako .300 Win that I am about to scope. Is the 243 plenty for this western hunt? Appreciate suggestions on rifle, anyone that knows whether terrain is long range, or 200 yard type....my thanks...............BK
 
That has been a pretty tough hunt the last few years. The Mullen fire changed the landscape significantly to the point the migration routes were changed. On top of that, the winter was pretty tough on that herd last year.

To answer your question, 243 would be on the light side of what I would prefer for that hunt. My last two bucks from that area, before the fire, were shot at 401 yards and 436 yards. Of course through the years some shots have been closer but a guy should be proficient to 500 to make the most of that tag imo. Glad to get into reasons why via PM if you are interested in discussing.

Good luck to you
 
Thanks for all input.....it's not as clearcut for me as it may sound at first. A light handy 243 that I have used for 40 years and am totally confident in.....to about 250 yards....or a big heavy Sako model 75 that will not be fun to carry......but would give a lot more energy out far........ I can confidently say that the spear and the rock are out...........
Sounds like long range rifle country.....so I'm gonna scope the Sako with a VX 5 Leupold and see what I can do before I decide...best of luck to everyone.......B
 
I've Shot A Couple Of Bucks With My 243!

But They Didn't Look like This!

damage-1.jpg
 
I’ll tell you straight up I’ve hunted mule deer in eastern Wyoming for 35 years now and still at times grab a 243. I actually only have one mule deer that was taken with my 300. I guess for me it goes back to what my father started me with……. a 243 ! And I still own and hunt with them today. I sure haven’t wounded any but dang sure missed a couple over the years ! Shoot what you shoot best, there’s no perfect caliber !
 
I've killed a bunch of muleys with a 7mm mag, which obviously is a bit less punch than a 300. It kills them dead. My 6.5 creedmoor kills them just as dead. If you opt for the .243, using the right bullet will be much more important to ensure a clean kill. But a .243 in the right spot will kill the biggest mule deer that's ever walked the earth. I don't know ballistics on distance wiht that cartidge tho.... so might want to look at what energy it's carrying past 400.
 
Get the Sako 300 WM scoped, shoot it a Lot. If you shoot it as well as you do the trusty 243 then its a no Brainer. If you can't shoot accurately to 300-400 yds then take the 243. With a 100gr 243 round you've got to be very persice in bullet placement. With the 300 you've got a bit more margin for error. I shoot a 300WM , but I'm confident with it, recoil isn't an issue with my gun.
 
If you do go with the .243 Id highly recommend going with a solid copper bullet like a barnes TTSX/LRX or Nosler ETip. With the smaller calibers like 243 and 6.5 the most important thing is penetration and the bullet not blowing up on you when it hits bone. Last year I shot an elk with my 6.5CM and solid copper. 210 yards from an elevated position, quartering towards, shot her inbetween the shoulder blades with her head down feeding. Bullet went thru the spine and then ran the entire body cavity into the hind quarter. Elk went down so fast I thought I missed as the rest of them scattered. Also shot a deer last year same load @310yards. He went 10 feet. That was a straight up broadside shot, complete pass thru with a 127gr LRX. If you use a standard lead bullet outta that 243, even the bonded type, I would say leave it home, but with solid copper 100% doable on a mule deer.
 
I'm gonna shoot this 300 a bit and see if I can handle it. Have always recoil sensitive, so will see. I may end up with the 243 though. I will look at Barnes Bullets. Have always used 100 grain Hornady Spire Points for short shots, they have killed deer, but not always held together totally. Unfamiliar with the Etip.....have some old Partitions that are 95 grainers, but have never used them.....will load some up for practice....you got a lot of penetration from the monometal bullets sounds like......BK
 
Bkule said:
I'm gonna shoot this 300 a bit and see if I can handle it. Have always recoil sensitive, so will see. I may end up with the 243 though. I will look at Barnes Bullets. Have always used 100 grain Hornady Spire Points for short shots, they have killed deer, but not always held together totally. Unfamiliar with the Etip.....have some old Partitions that are 95 grainers, but have never used them.....will load some up for practice....you got a lot of penetration from the monometal bullets sounds like......BK
Click to expand...
What did you use on that Eland?
 
Bkule said:
I'm gonna shoot this 300 a bit and see if I can handle it. Have always recoil sensitive, so will see. I may end up with the 243 though. I will look at Barnes Bullets. Have always used 100 grain Hornady Spire Points for short shots, they have killed deer, but not always held together totally. Unfamiliar with the Etip.....have some old Partitions that are 95 grainers, but have never used them.....will load some up for practice....you got a lot of penetration from the monometal bullets sounds like......BK
Click to expand...

I think you have pretty much there on how you'll decide on which to use, but why not take both on your hunt. Use the 300 on windy days for the stability of the bullet and the 243 in better weather. As far as bullets go in the 243, the solids might be great, but some rifles don't like them while others love them. I use 95 Gr Partitions and have tagged a few deer and several lopes with them. I know lopes are thinner skinned than deer, but my buck lope was 300 yds and the partition went clean thru with the exit wound the size of a silver dollar. I'd say if he would have been a deer, he'd be just as dead as the lope was. I also have 300 WM's that I use for elk, but I've been surprised at how much damage a 243 does on deer and lopes. As they say with the 243 or the 300, shot placement is the important thing. My $0.02
 
Bkule said:
I'm gonna shoot this 300 a bit and see if I can handle it. Have always recoil sensitive, so will see. I may end up with the 243 though. I will look at Barnes Bullets. Have always used 100 grain Hornady Spire Points for short shots, they have killed deer, but not always held together totally. Unfamiliar with the Etip.....have some old Partitions that are 95 grainers, but have never used them.....will load some up for practice....you got a lot of penetration from the monometal bullets sounds like......BK
Click to expand...


Monometals like to penetrate, so let em eat. They excel at quartering shots where you can run em thru the whole animal.

Have read many accounts of, and seen first hand quite a few times as well, quartering towards shots with 6.5CM and Barnes LRX where the animal is dead on arrival. Its messy inside, but they dont take a step and I dont gut animals anyway.
 
Maybe things have changed but when I've shot Barnes, I shot the lighter for caliber bullets so they had enough velocity to expand. I used to shoot 120s and 140s out of my 7mm and they killed exceptionally well. They do have a velocity envelope though so make sure if you use them you understand the distances in which the bullet will be travelling fast enough to expand. The LRX seems like it would expand a bit lower velocity but i have no experience with them.
 
my 9 year old shoots the 300 PRC. If you have a brake on the 300, then shoot that. No reason to go into a situation and purposefully cut yourself off at the knees. I would assume you are new to shooting, hence the question, so use the advise give on this thread for whichever gun you choose.
 
scopenstalk said:
Maybe things have changed but when I've shot Barnes, I shot the lighter for caliber bullets so they had enough velocity to expand. I used to shoot 120s and 140s out of my 7mm and they killed exceptionally well. They do have a velocity envelope though so make sure if you use them you understand the distances in which the bullet will be travelling fast enough to expand. The LRX seems like it would expand a bit lower velocity but i have no experience with them.
Click to expand...

Mono projectiles typically come in lighter weights because the bullets are longer than lead projectiles as copper is less dense than lead.

For example, If you shoot 180gr lead out of a 308, the 165 barnes would be the suitable replacement as a 180gr MONO is too long for a 308 case. Also, the longer the bullet the tighter the twist rate required to stabilize it, so the barnes bullets come in lighter weights so the bullets arent too long to stabilize.

You are correct about the velocity envelope. However, on most 6mm, 6.5mm and 7mm rounds youre gonna need to get out past 500yards for that to be of any concern with the TTSX. The newer LRX bullets extend that distance even further. IMO Monos excel with the 6mm-7mm rounds because they tend to run at higher downrange velocities than a lot of 30cals and the high BCs maintain those velocities at longer distances. 30cals rely on higher bullet weights to deliver downrange energy at lower velocities.
 
All of my mule deer hunting has been in open country where longer range shots could make the difference between filling a tag or not. I would not pin my hopes on using something marginal if I have other options.
 
An out of state hunt necessitates two rifles. Stuff happens. You don’t want to have to go home early because your rifle or scope chit the bed on you. Wire them both in to where you can hit a 10” circular target at 300 yards. If the buck is further than that, get closer. People want to talk about “margin of error” like a gut shot deer or one you blow a leg off of will just tip the fugg over if it’s shot with a magnum cartridge as compared to a non magnum. No amount of velocity, or “down range energy” is going to fill in the gaps that come with making a bad shot. Your 243 with 100 grain Hornady’s will suit you just fine out here.
 
Perfect shot and your correct, a tad off....its no question the 300WM is a Much Better option, no gut shots , no shooting legs off , im talking hitting bone. A 180 grain bullet is far superior imo.
 
If you don't like your 300's recoil sell it and buy a 300 WSM! 300 WSM is a great all-round caliber for all Wyoming big game critters that walk! I don't even notice a kick with my Sako 300 WSM.

2nd, take a look at the ballistics of your 300 vs 243 at 400+ yards. In particular take a look at the energy and drop. Keep in mind, in most areas in Wyoming, the wind is horrible. Why shoot a caliber that has a 23" drop at 400 yards if that's the range you may shoot when you have another rifle in your safe that drops half that distance with a chunk higher energy? There is no comparison.

I myself try to stalk within 200 yards of every animal I shoot. If I get within 200 yards, 99.99% of the time the critter is going down with one shot!

Why the heck would you ever shoot a rifle that you don't have confidence in putting a critter on the ground with every shot at all distances? I think you've answered your own question on this if you plan on shooting over 200 yards in windy Wyo! Forget the 243! You owe it to the animal to be 100% confident!
 
A .243 will do the job. Like everyone said -shot placement. People lose animals but if **** placement is good and it still has the velocity down it goes. I shoot a .270 and the recoil is light and I have killed 3 deer, an Antelope and 2 Deer with all of them dropping in their tracks. I missed one Deer but I had my scope dilated up too high and it was a quick shot and the Deer was running.
 
DeerMadness said:
A .243 will do the job. Like everyone said -shot placement. People lose animals but if **** placement is good and it still has the velocity down it goes. I shoot a .270 and the recoil is light and I have killed 3 deer, an Antelope and 2 Deer with all of them dropping in their tracks. I missed one Deer but I had my scope dilated up too high and it was a quick shot and the Deer was running.
Click to expand...
Wouldn't that be 5 deer and 1 antelope? :)
 
Haha. We use the 243 to consistently take mule deer and elk. We have shot several elk, deer and pronghorn with out ever having an issue. We have never wished we had a bigger gun… know your limits on range and take a good first shot and it won’t matter…

All
Killed by the 243 last few
Years… not sure where the pics
Of the other elk went… but we had 3 more elk.

All using the hornady 100 grain interlock…

0C172FF5-5B1D-489A-A06D-DF7B695C809F.png


46E6105C-FF2D-4E86-A5A7-65F25EFA68C0.png


F2CD30E9-7628-4944-A158-4A21EB8E7630.jpeg


295E0EE4-5AD1-4A87-BBFF-E113666CE875.jpeg


F665FD41-989F-48AC-A5C2-3A3B0A4E5321.jpeg


B9AED3C9-B310-4C01-8A4F-846E4704BA6D.png
 
Elk with a .243 sounds risky. They are tough as hell and sometimes takes multiple well placed shots to put them down when shooting a larger caliber. Never had anything questionable happen shooting elk with that small of a caliber? I understand the smaller caliber for the kids and recoil but that seems awefully risky....especially with kids as the shooters.
 
Wiszard said:
Elk with a .243 sounds risky. They are tough as hell and sometimes takes multiple well placed shots to put them down when shooting a larger caliber. Never had anything questionable happen shooting elk with that small of a caliber? I understand the smaller caliber for the kids and recoil but that seems awefully risky....especially with kids as the shooters.
Click to expand...
Any more "risky" then a kid hammering away with a rifle they're afraid to shoot?

Elk and deer shot on the edges with any rifle will make for a long day.

Elk and deer shot correctly and it's game over, with any rifle.

Proper bullets placed correctly matters way more than a headstamp.
 
Wiszard said:
Elk with a .243 sounds risky. They are tough as hell and sometimes takes multiple well placed shots to put them down when shooting a larger caliber. Never had anything questionable happen shooting elk with that small of a caliber? I understand the smaller caliber for the kids and recoil but that seems awefully risky....especially with kids as the shooters.
Click to expand...
Gotta remember a sharp stick in the vitals kills em dead
 
BuzzH said:
Any more "risky" then a kid hammering away with a rifle they're afraid to shoot?

Elk and deer shot on the edges with any rifle will make for a long day.

Elk and deer shot correctly and it's game over, with any rifle.

Proper bullets placed correctly matters way more than a headstamp.
Click to expand...
The hardest recovery I ever had was on a cow elk in the late season shot by a hunter who hit her with a 270 grain 375 H&H bullet. Hit Her below the neck, in front of shoulder and left a hole big enough I could fit 2 fist in her chest. It was 4 miles and 8 hours before we finally got her down. All in Knee deep snow. Furthest recovery of any animal with the 243 has been under 60 yards. The bull in my picks was hot in the boiler room on the first shot, and never even acted hit. My son sent 2 more shots, I could see the impact and knew they were good. Before we had time for a 4th shot he went on a 20 yard death run and flipped over…

All 3 were kill shots the bull just did not know it…
 
.243 without question. I’ve had this conversation over the phone with hunters every year, and I’d rather you come with a rifle you’re supremely confident in than one that’s supposedly better suited to the animal or conditions.

Your tone in the comments suggest that you love that 243, it’ll get the job done handily on any realistic shot inside 500 yards, and the bullet is far more likely to land where it’s intended if the guy behind it does his job.
 
Thanks, all............I couldn't find any mono-metal bullets to load in the 243.....so loaded up more 95 grain Partitions.....40.0 grains of 4350 gave 2860fps and about 1.3" groups of 5 shots. Some folks suggested taking several rifles, but it's a long way from home, in a solo tent camp, and I don't want too much laying around when I head out each day. Scope for 300 should arrive in a day or two.....will see what Factory loads do in that........BK
 
Littlebig......looked at Hammers.....their 75 grain (HH?) bullet is the biggest that will stabilize in my 10 inch twisted 243. I have never shot anything that light, but will give it a try at the range first. Thanks. Chester.....ya, you're right, I don't want to go that far for a hunt and take only one rifle. I will follow your advice no matter what rifle I choose as main battery, and bring a second one sited in tight....Elks96 sure enjoyed pics of the youngsters with some fine critters.....and with the 243!. Can't get my grandsons off the video games. Berryblaster....I assume you are a guide and have had lots of experience with this issue, and I am giving a lot of weight to what you say; Jims:...."windy Wyoming"....that says a lot and helps me plan accordingly. Won't buy a new rifle though....this is my last hunt....age will prevent me accruing enough points to ever hunt Wyoming again and the doc tells me no long term hunt plans are needed....in fact I will sell all firearms when this season is done, or (maybe keep a couple of shotguns) ....I have learned a lot about Wyoming deer hunting on this forum. Wish the winter had been better, but points are used now and there's no goin back.........best of luck to all that have helped me........BK
 
BuzzH said:
Any more "risky" then a kid hammering away with a rifle they're afraid to shoot?

Elk and deer shot on the edges with any rifle will make for a long day.

Elk and deer shot correctly and it's game over, with any rifle.

Proper bullets placed correctly matters way more than a headstamp.
Click to expand...
Kids will sometimes get excited or nervous or just plain jittery when on the gun. It's natural. My point was that a larger bullet creates more damage in the target animal which takes away some of that human error that would be natural with younger hunters.

I see your point about the larger calibers scaring younger hunters. Maybe a buttpad would help....or more work behind the rifle may do the trick. My concern would be wounding an elk with a lesser caliber such as the .243. We all see how elk absorb larger calibers. I would imagine the .243 would be childs play on a more mature bull. Just sayin......

Nobody said "hammering away" either. Those are your words. My kids never hammered away on any game. We try to make the first shot count so no hammering is necessary.
 
berrysblaster said:
.243 without question. I’ve had this conversation over the phone with hunters every year, and I’d rather you come with a rifle you’re supremely confident in than one that’s supposedly better suited to the animal or conditions.

Your tone in the comments suggest that you love that 243, it’ll get the job done handily on any realistic shot inside 500 yards, and the bullet is far more likely to land where it’s intended if the guy behind it does his job.
Click to expand...
Agreed.....but isn't putting work in behind the gun to GET COMFORTABLE with said rifle part of hunting? You'd have a young hunter shoot at a mature bull at 500 yards with a .243?
 
Wiszard said:
Agreed.....but isn't putting work in behind the gun to GET COMFORTABLE with said rifle part of hunting? You'd have a young hunter shoot at a mature bull at 500 yards with a .243?
Click to expand...
We aren’t talking about that. This is a mule deer hunt in Wyoming with most common shots being 200-500 yards. Which that rifle is adequate for.

I probably wouldn’t have youth hunter do that, my general rule of thumb is 1100 ftlbs on target, and the 243 loses that just before 500 with most common loads that have a 90-110 grain bullet.

I would make said youth hunter step behind one of my 6.5-27 caliber guns with brakes and pads have them shoot before and make an informed determination if I thought they could pull of that kind of shot in the field with me coaching.
 
Good time to buy a nice new Tikka in 6.5 PRC or 270 Win. I don’t care for muzzle brakes but a Witt clamp on for the 300 win mag another option.
 
Wiszard said:
Agreed.....but isn't putting work in behind the gun to GET COMFORTABLE with said rifle part of hunting? You'd have a young hunter shoot at a mature bull at 500 yards with a .243?
Click to expand...
I had my nephew shoot at a cow elk at 368 yards with a .243 using old style 100 grain bullets a few years back.

This blood trail:

IMG_20201118_131740132.jpg


Lead to a 50 yard recovery, of this dead elk:

IMG_20201118_124500927.jpg


And a happy hunter with his first elk:

IMG_20201118_140539876_BURST001_COMP.jpg


I'm always curious how much big-game those that are claiming a .243/6mm isn't enough to kill an elk, have actually shot and used a .243.

My immediate family and I have been shooting them for about 45 years, and the amount of big-game we've killed with them would make a pretty big pile.

A friend of mine pictured below packing a 5 point bull he killed, with his .243 and 100 grain noslers, one of over 40 elk he's killed with that rifle. That includes some mature 6x6 bulls.

IMG_0471.jpg


A couple elk I shot with a 6mm in the past few years, cow elk at 111 yards, 95 grain ballistic tip. Went maybe 30 yards.

IMG952463.jpg


Bullet right under the hide on the off shoulder after breaking the blade:

5CE97D02-8E55-45B4-A535-1C0D5B1B381D.jpg


Another at just over 200 yards with a 90 grain accubond, bullet passed through, elk went maybe 10 yards:

21407.jpg


I've shot a bunch of mule deer, pronghorn, and whitetails with that same rifle, never have had an issue. The .243/6mm is wayyyy underrated, and primarily by people who have never used one, IME.
 
I'll stick with my thoughts of hunting elk with the larger caliber to lessen the element of error.

No doubt it can be a useful caliber for elk, just not worth it in my opinion.
 
Wiszard said:
I'll stick with my thoughts of hunting elk with the larger caliber to lessen the element of error.

No doubt it can be a useful caliber for elk, just not worth it in my opinion.
Click to expand...
That's cool, but again, there isn't any caliber that makes up for error.

The three most important things when it comes to killing elk/deer, etc. are shot placement, shot placement, and shot placement roughly in that order.

Next is a well constructed bullet.

The OP is talking mule deer and with the number of big game animals I've taken and seen taken with a .243, it's more than enough.

The results I've had, actually using one, speak for themselves.
 
Bkule said:
Littlebig......looked at Hammers.....their 75 grain (HH?) bullet is the biggest that will stabilize in my 10 inch twisted 243. I have never shot anything that light, but will give it a try at the range first. Thanks. Chester.....ya, you're right, I don't want to go that far for a hunt and take only one rifle. I will follow your advice no matter what rifle I choose as main battery, and bring a second one sited in tight....Elks96 sure enjoyed pics of the youngsters with some fine critters.....and with the 243!. Can't get my grandsons off the video games. Berryblaster....I assume you are a guide and have had lots of experience with this issue, and I am giving a lot of weight to what you say; Jims:...."windy Wyoming"....that says a lot and helps me plan accordingly. Won't buy a new rifle though....this is my last hunt....age will prevent me accruing enough points to ever hunt Wyoming again and the doc tells me no long term hunt plans are needed....in fact I will sell all firearms when this season is done, or (maybe keep a couple of shotguns) ....I have learned a lot about Wyoming deer hunting on this forum. Wish the winter had been better, but points are used now and there's no goin back.........best of luck to all that have helped me........BK
Click to expand...
The 70 grain HH is the same length as a 100 grain Sierra Pro Hunter or the like.

It kills well.
 
Just as an update, I received and mounted my scope on my 300 WM.....a 3-15 VX 5 Leupold. I must say that these old eyes have never had it so good. Optics have improved a lot since I bought my last scope 12 years ago. Or so. I shot the rifle a bit, in a typical break in proceedure.......it was used but I don't think it had ever been fired. Anyway.....Sako 75's are very nice rifles for my budget......still, a lot of recoil there. I'm gonna load up some R-19 loads with Berger bullets (given to me cause the guy hated them) and learn to manage this thing. Also talked with a guy that lives on the border of my unit (78) who said deer population is close to zero. Figures! Also, and this has little bearing on my hunt, but 40 years ago I dug two 6mm bullets out of a 5X6 bull (a big one), bullets that had been in there at least a couple of years and fully healed) Which proves nothing, but was interesting..................BK
 
BuzzH said:
That's cool, but again, there isn't any caliber that makes up for error.

The three most important things when it comes to killing elk/deer, etc. are shot placement, shot placement, and shot placement roughly in that order.

Next is a well constructed bullet.

The OP is talking mule deer and with the number of big game animals I've taken and seen taken with a .243, it's more than enough.

The results I've had, actually using one, speak for themselves.
Click to expand...
You don't think a larger caliber that carries a harder, more damaging impact/a larger bullet leaving more damaged tissue can make up for an inch or two one way or another in regards to shot placement makes a difference? If every shot is perfect, why not shoot a 22-250 then?
 
Wiszard said:
You don't think a larger caliber that carries a harder, more damaging impact/a larger bullet leaving more damaged tissue can make up for an inch or two one way or another in regards to shot placement makes a difference? If every shot is perfect, why not shoot a 22-250 then?
Click to expand...
No, I dont think a larger caliber makes a difference by an inch or two. Big game shot on the edges, by any caliber, makes for long days.

I have shot big game with a .22-250 and if that's the only rifle I had to use the rest of my life, I wouldn't even give it a second thought. Quick twist shooting a 60 grain partition, all over but the packing.
 
BuzzH said:
No, I dont think a larger caliber makes a difference by an inch or two. Big game shot on the edges, by any caliber, makes for long days.

I have shot big game with a .22-250 and if that's the only rifle I had to use the rest of my life, I wouldn't even give it a second thought. Quick twist shooting a 60 grain partition, all over but the packing.
Click to expand...
I won't be testing your theory. You should work for main stream media....

This reminds me of a friend I talked to on 4th of July who said that Biden puts sentences together just as well as Trump does. I saw where the convo was going to I didn't press it...but I so wanted to. True story....
 
Wiszard said:
I won't be testing your theory. You should work for main stream media....

This reminds me of a friend I talked to on 4th of July who said that Biden puts sentences together just as well as Trump does. I saw where the convo was going to I didn't press it...but I so wanted to. True story....
Click to expand...
It's not a theory if you've done it.

That's why we have different takes on actually killing big game, and like I said, that's cool.

Ones based on speculation, one on actual experience. I trust one wayyyy more than the other.
 
BuzzH said:
It's not a theory if you've done it.

That's why we have different takes on actually killing big game, and like I said, that's cool.

Ones based on speculation, one on actual experience. I trust one wayyyy more than the other.
Click to expand...
Me too
 
I don’t get it. A damn arrow kills a bull deader than a door nail if you hit them right. Arrows cause exactly zero dynamic shock. They cut a relative small hole and that’s it. Rifles shock the holy eff out of the tissue and tear it up.

I understand we Americans love our magnums and there’s nothing wrong with that except when bro science over takes actual field data.

No elk walking North America (and especially no mule deer either) is going to just run off and not die from a 6mm bullet that blows through either both lungs or the heart. It just won’t happen unless the bullet has zero expansion i.e. using a shitty bullet.

I’ve shot 7mm mag for 3/4 of my hunting career, killed plenty of game with them. I decided to switch to 6.5 creedmoor and my hits have been more precise in general and at further distances. I have not tracked a deer shot with creedmoor more than 30 yards and I’ve made kill shots from 200-711 yards with them. I’m not gods gift to rifle shooting but I’m also not bad at it and I am mature enough to admit rifles with less recoil and less muzzle blast are just plain easier to shoot well.

If someone can put it where it needs to go with a magnum then hell yes shoot your magnum. There’s far more guys who really should not shoot a magnum than there are that should.
 
With the logic around here if you're " comfortable " or "confident" you can hunt cape buffalo with a 243.

What should be said is if you're an excellent shot, you know your limitations, you never make a mistake and you're willing to pass on shots a larger caliber would easily take an animal with then yes, the 243 is fine for deer.
 
Togwotee said:
With the logic around here if you're " comfortable " or "confident" you can hunt cape buffalo with a 243.

What should be said is if you're an excellent shot, you know your limitations, you never make a mistake and you're willing to pass on shots a larger caliber would easily take an animal with then yes, the 243 is fine for deer.
Click to expand...
Nailed it.....for a sec, I thought I was the only one with said logic.
 
When I posted this thread, I had hoped for replies like:
1. It is heavily timbered, shots are usually under 200 yards, or
2. It is open country with timbered stringers, shots often over 350 yards, or
3. very windy in Wyoming, choose accordingly.
But most thought I was asking whether a 300 Win mag was more powerful than a .243. That was not my question.
The loads I settled on:
1. 243....WW brass, CCI 200 primer, 40 grains IMR 4350, 95 grain Partition at Vel 2860 E 1726 ft lbs.......and
2. 300WM, WW brass, Fed 215, 75grn Re-19, 168TTSX at 3078 for Energy 3535 ft lbs
One guy told me to expect lots of wind, one guy said shots of 401 and 436 were his two bucks there. Thanks to them both.
And thanks to all who replied.
Gonna take the 300 based upon that info.
FWIW....I would have hunted this with my .62 muzzleloader (as in my avatar), but I am now too old and it is my last hunt.....hence the rifle option...........good hunting to you all this season...BK
 
Bkule said:
When I posted this thread, I had hoped for replies like:
1. It is heavily timbered, shots are usually under 200 yards, or
2. It is open country with timbered stringers, shots often over 350 yards, or
3. very windy in Wyoming, choose accordingly.
But most thought I was asking whether a 300 Win mag was more powerful than a .243. That was not my question.
The loads I settled on:
1. 243....WW brass, CCI 200 primer, 40 grains IMR 4350, 95 grain Partition at Vel 2860 E 1726 ft lbs.......and
2. 300WM, WW brass, Fed 215, 75grn Re-19, 168TTSX at 3078 for Energy 3535 ft lbs
One guy told me to expect lots of wind, one guy said shots of 401 and 436 were his two bucks there. Thanks to them both.
And thanks to all who replied.
Gonna take the 300 based upon that info.
FWIW....I would have hunted this with my .62 muzzleloader (as in my avatar), but I am now too old and it is my last hunt.....hence the rifle option...........good hunting to you all this season...BK
Click to expand...
Good choice.
 
Bkule said:
When I posted this thread, I had hoped for replies like:
1. It is heavily timbered, shots are usually under 200 yards, or
2. It is open country with timbered stringers, shots often over 350 yards, or
3. very windy in Wyoming, choose accordingly.
Click to expand...
1. Yup, there's timber in the unit.
2. Yup, there's open areas in the unit.
3. No chit.
 
I'm no WY expert, but I do have maybe 5-6 goats and 4-5 deer from there. I've had shots between 40 and 400 yards, my self-imposed limit. I'd feel under gunned with the 243.
 
The more I have shot this 300 Win, the better I like it. Recoil is stout, but not intolerable. Attached foto from shooting session in desert.....not ideal conditions. The groups are quite good for me....the numbers beside the load are the COAL, not the group size....................BK

IMG-7165.jpg
 
Bkule said:
When I posted this thread, I had hoped for replies like:
1. It is heavily timbered, shots are usually under 200 yards, or
2. It is open country with timbered stringers, shots often over 350 yards, or
3. very windy in Wyoming, choose accordingly.
But most thought I was asking whether a 300 Win mag was more powerful than a .243. That was not my question.
The loads I settled on:
1. 243....WW brass, CCI 200 primer, 40 grains IMR 4350, 95 grain Partition at Vel 2860 E 1726 ft lbs.......and
2. 300WM, WW brass, Fed 215, 75grn Re-19, 168TTSX at 3078 for Energy 3535 ft lbs
One guy told me to expect lots of wind, one guy said shots of 401 and 436 were his two bucks there. Thanks to them both.
And thanks to all who replied.
Gonna take the 300 based upon that info.
FWIW....I would have hunted this with my .62 muzzleloader (as in my avatar), but I am now too old and it is my last hunt.....hence the rifle option...........good hunting to you all this season...BK
Click to expand...
Hey Brother, good luck to you and I pray you have a super special trip man. Keep practicing this summer and kill a bigun!
Godspeed
Bret
 
All I had left in 243 was 85 grain Speer BT with 44.0 grn of 4350, and thought bullet too soft for deer, although I have taken antelope with it. Gonna load some deer loads and shoot when weather not so hot......am all set up to load 95 grn Partitions...........BK
 
Fun fact for Wyoming hunters: Decided to add two days of duck hunting after my deer hunt in Wyom. Called to see if my license was enough (knew it wasn't) But informed this:
1. Need separate small game hunting license
2. need HIP permit
3. need US migratory game reporting permit
4. need conservation stamp
5. need Fed Duck Stamp
6. need ATV permit (for getting dekes to water)
Many opportunities for getting a citation.....be cautious...best of luck to everyone. BK
 
Bkule said:
Fun fact for Wyoming hunters: Decided to add two days of duck hunting after my deer hunt in Wyom. Called to see if my license was enough (knew it wasn't) But informed this:
1. Need separate small game hunting license
2. need HIP permit
3. need US migratory game reporting permit
4. need conservation stamp
5. need Fed Duck Stamp
6. need ATV permit (for getting dekes to water)
Many opportunities for getting a citation.....be cautious...best of luck to everyone. BK
Click to expand...
I thought Wyoming was a no nonsense state but it seems as though they are transforming to a get you coming and going state. Sad. That reminds me, I need to buy my conservation stamp for my elk hunt coming up. Surprised that fishing was included with my big game license after reading your post. Thanks for the heads up as I am sure not everyone knew of the rigmarole.
 
Bkule said:
Fun fact for Wyoming hunters: Decided to add two days of duck hunting after my deer hunt in Wyom. Called to see if my license was enough (knew it wasn't) But informed this:
1. Need separate small game hunting license
2. need HIP permit
3. need US migratory game reporting permit
4. need conservation stamp
5. need Fed Duck Stamp
6. need ATV permit (for getting dekes to water)
Many opportunities for getting a citation.....be cautious...best of luck to everyone. BK
Click to expand...
1.Nonresident daily Game Bird/Small Game License $22
2. HIP Permit is free
3. No distinction between this, and the HIP Permit. Again, free.
4. Conservation stamp you have for you deer tag will work
5. You have to have a federal duck stamp to hunt waterfowl anywhere in America
6. $15 Good for the entire year.

Seems reasonable to me.
 
Wiszard said:
I thought Wyoming was a no nonsense state but it seems as though they are transforming to a get you coming and going state. Sad. That reminds me, I need to buy my conservation stamp for my elk hunt coming up. Surprised that fishing was included with my big game license after reading your post. Thanks for the heads up as I am sure not everyone knew of the rigmarole.
Click to expand...
Don't forget your Elk Special Management stamp. You will need it.
 
mulecreek said:
Don't forget your Elk Special Management stamp. You will need it.
Click to expand...
I just read up on that. I had no idea this was a requirement. I had just bought my Conservation stamp so now I will go back in and buy the ESM stamp. Thanks for mentioning this. I can't wait to get out there....
 
To finish this thread: I did not get a deer. Saw very few. Most locals with whom I talked felt that the season should have been cancelled and a moratorium enacted to allow recovery. Hunted hard entire season, before and after the Sun. In retro it was a pooly chosen unit, having only myself to blame. Now for the hard part: Saying goodbye to hunting after 62 years.....rifles, shotguns ,optics wall tents, 4 wheelers, tons of reloading equip, 20 doz goose dekes., even trophies taken...ya, I was in it deeply. We accumulate a lot of stuff over that much time. I will hunt no more. But it was a good run. I now bow out of this forum./ For good. ....stay strong/hunt often.....BK
 
Bkule said:
I have drawn a tag for muley's in Wyoming Unit 78-1. I have never seen the unit. I have a .243 that I shoot well, is light and handy, with a Leupold 2.5-8 on it. I have a new Sako .300 Win that I am about to scope. Is the 243 plenty for this western hunt? Appreciate suggestions on rifle, anyone that knows whether terrain is long range, or 200 yard type....my thanks...............BK
Click to expand...
I used the 243 for years but I wouldn’t suggest my 80 grain coyote loads get a solider jacket.
Mine shotgunned on the way through
 

Similar threads

B
CO Unit 67 2nd Rifle Mule Deer - take trailer?
Replies
7
Views
813
AZGuy
AZGuy
R
Vernon Rifle
Replies
44
Views
3k
jls456
jls456
S
Rifle deer elevation
Replies
8
Views
549
slamdunk
slamdunk

Click-a-Pic ... Details & Bigger Photos

Member Gallery Photos and Videos!

IMG_0753.jpg
D06EA311-7291-4251-8837-7783EF83A099.jpeg
7GdCx7GCQ8e6UzqARX9vJg.jpg
20200919_070144.jpg
A7E5F28B-D79E-4C48-BBD4-0D653DE9F6D2.jpeg
IMG_20131230_075456_134.jpg
DSCN3689.JPG
20230716_061017.jpg
IMG_2213.jpg
79298042-5335-4666-AD5D-3FC49C6CB262.jpeg
Screenshot_20230911_120944_Facebook.jpeg
0856E5BF-606D-4BB1-93CE-24FB891FD1BB.jpeg
Back
Top Bottom